I will make a proper page for it over on my costuming blog, but not now, sicne I am - after all - supposed to be working :) Tonight maybe, though I'm going to spend most of the eveningover at Anna's plae, encouraging her to work on her transitional stays, and making a chemisette.
So I pushed it away, and enjoyed our walk, and the sun, and when I came home I sat down to sew, and and listening to The Cleric Quintet on audio book. This is was the last day of my holiday, so I thought that I'd do something that I really enjoy.
First I started re-making my regency stays again. I showed the first re-make in my previous post, when I had taken them in c. 8 cm. However, while they worked as they were I knew that my bust would look more correct if I shortened the bust gores. So that's what I did.
Yesterday I was at my friend Anna's place contributing with advice and moral support (and artificial whale bone) when she started patterning her first stays, late 18th century transitional stays with cups. While talking (i'm good at multi-tasking ; ) I took in my regency petticoat.
Current version of stays and petticoat:
When they were first made:
Then I started on the bodice. I made the sleeves yesterday, though I think I may have to re-do them, they are maybe too wide. We'll see how it looks when they are sewn in to the bodice.
First I had to make a new pattern, but with the help of my previous, too large pattern, or at least the front piece, since I couldn't find the back piece, it wasn't that difficult.
Apart from the usual sources such as Patterns of Fashion and Kvinnligt mode under två sekel by Pernilla Rasmussen and Britta Hammar, I also looked at a couple of patterns from the internet, generously shared by the 19th US Regiment of InfantryCapt. Angus Langham's Company1812-1815.
Here you find their images and patterns of extant gows and outerwear.
And I sort of make it up as I go along. It is all hand sewn, as the rest of my regency clothing except for the stays, which were a test version whee only the lacing holes in the back are hand sewn. And making things by hand you can do it piece by piece and figure out, for example, exactly where to attach the skirt later. So I am basically making it up as I go along. There is one narrow channel more to make, the bodice will be gathered in front, before I have to figure out the skirt. And I can do that tomorrow, when I'm less tired.
Of course, being me, I will now remove the bust gussets on the regency stays and shorten them. They work as they are, but they will (probably, I will of course try it before cutting) will look better with shorter gussets so that the boobs end up higher.
Yesterday I re-made the petticoat and also sewed the sleeves for the teal gown. Unfortunately I think they turned out too wide, but I will see when I have made the bodice.
Now to decide exaclty what typ of bodice that I want, and make a pattern for that. First I'm taking in my petticoat however. I'm bringing the petticoat, and the fabric for the bodice over to Anna's place tonight. The main purpose of the visit is to help her make her first stays, ca 1790-1800, but I may get the time to do some sewing myself too.
Later this night I may go down town to a manifestation held by child refugees from Afghanistan who are going to be sent back by Sweden (one of a very few countries who dperot peopel to Afghanistan right now). In Stockholm such a manifestation was attacked by nazis a few days ago, so there is a need for grown-ups, and native Swedes, to protect these boys, espcially during the dark hours.
Valeria and I spent 2,5 hours there last night, between 10.45 pm and 01.15 am, playing cards and chatting. Se's going down there now and I will probably get down later.
In related news I am gong through all my garb. Especially the costumes which I had packed away because they were too small.They are now all too big, and I wil sell some, but a few of them I will take the trouble to take in, because I love them so much.
I've written a short blog post about Italian 15th century coifs here.
The photos are taken by the hospital next to where we live. 19th century architecture can apparently work well as background for Italian renaissance to
And after the photo shoot we raided at the gym there and I finally got an Articuno. Probably the only time someone played Pokémon Go in renaissance clothes around here.
In other news: The holiday was very nice, I bought 15 metres of cotton fabric: 5 metres for curtains in the kitchen (we have three windows, one rather large), 4 metres for a white late 18th century round gown, because obviously I need one of those. I have som printed chintz to use for an open robe over it, cotton broadcloth for a wrap skirt, since I only have one neutral knee length summer skirt that fits me. Patchwork hippie skirts, or ric-rac in abundance is fine, but sometimes you need something more neutral. I also got white, thin cotton broadcloth if I need to make another regency petticoat. Or something. And 2 metres of cotton wit a Halloween print that I hemmed on machine to make it a table cloth for our traditional Halloween dinner.
The first thing I did when we got home on Friday evening was to wash all the fabric and on Saturday I made that skirt.
The blouse is another holiday find: The Salvation Army's 2nd hand shops have racks with blouses for 39 SEK (c. 4,7 dollars) and I bought this one, which is from H&M, and one that I don't think has ever been used, made from white linen.
BTW, here are my holiday photos.
While on Holiday we went to a large, traditional market, where I got lots of cotton hankies, good quality bed sheets, some red and white striped piping, a heart shaped baking tin and two straw hats which will be partly unraveled and made into bonnets.
Some of the fabric was bought at Tygladan, which is close to my home village, and some was bought at Kristinedals fabriker, which not only had lots of nice, cheap fabric, but also used to be a mill making both wool and cotton/linen yarn for weaving.
I did some sewing while on holiday too: I hand sewed most of a new shift for Valeria, it's going to have embroidery at all the seams, and along the sleeves, so I can't add the sleeves until I've made that embroidery. I'm getting supplies for that today. And when I had done as much as I could on the shift I started embroidering on my regency gown again, and I think it will a) be finished for the picninc on the 2nd of September and b) be really pretty.
I'm bringing cut out pieces for an Italian renaissance smock for Valeria, and my blue regency gown to embroider on.
Back on Saturday or Sunday - see you then!
I was lazy this time and just cut the place mat to shape, instead of unraveling the braid and shaping it while sewing.
The blue colour is seen in several late 18th-early 19th century pictures, though then probably made from silk, and not from cotton. Inspiration for embroidering it was gowns like this, with a dark background and colourful embroidery.
Which of course is silk, and has a much more rich and complicated embroidery. But I think my gown will look pretty with its cotton embroidery. The pattern I use is the same as on the cap of my folk costume, which is roughly from this period.
I have also bought material for another bonnet: a braided place mat and a cotton satin sheet that was reduced by 70%. It will be enough to make a summer spencer too.
The other gowns I plan are to made from a saree that hasn't arrived yet, and from this printed thin cotton:
The bonnet with purple cotton satin is of course intended to be worn with that gown.
I also bought these shoes on sale yesterday, and though the metal details aren't to my liking, I think they will do. Especially after I've painted over the brass ;)
Now I must get back to working on those scrolls.
More images and info here.
I also took in my regency corset while watching an old adaptation of "Sense and Sensibility" together with Alfhild.
I really am tanned this summer. I usd to spend my summers avoiding the sun, so to not have a tan at Visby Medieval week in August, but some ten years ago I realized that I can't let my hobby rule my whole life. And that I like the way I look with a tan - and besides it's good for my psoriasis.
And convincing for a working class woman of the Quattrocento ;)
And I swam three times in the sea!
I brought my tent, which I dreaded putting up and taking down for just two days, but it went up really quickly and took almost no time to set up nicely, hiding all the mundane packing stuff behind wall hangings, putting the chest together and putting up mine and Katarina's camping beds.
Rickard was tired after working the whole week, so he and Maja just came down over the day when the market was on Saturday.
Friday night was really perfect - relaxed talking (and some sewing) around the table, with a pot over the fire providing tea water, some wine to drink, and ending with a walk up to the top of the hill where the castle used to be, to look out over the sea.
Saturday was also nice, but you get tired from being "on display" from 10 am to 5 pm, so people went to bed earlier We also wanted to pack early on Sunday morning. But we made a good pottage with whole wheat, carrots, cabbage, onions, bacon and smoked sausages and ate together. Then Gaby and Linus and I went for a swim (my third), we all talked (and sewed) some more. When the others went to bed I took a final walk around the small peninsula, going down to the little beaches or out to the furthest cliffs, before going to bed around midnight. It was a magical feeling those nights, just like it used to be with my old medieval group Nylöse.
Many more photos from the event can be found here.
I also started on a new working class Italian ca 1480s dress from thin wool, and finished everything except the sleeves and six lacing holes . The rest I made yesterday and this morning.
Of course, when I tried it on it turned out to be too big, so I hade to take it in. It is no fun unpicking all hand sewn garments.
But of course I did it, and this is the result.
It needs an apron and a little white cap, both of which I plan to make this week. Maybe not tomorrow though, because we're going to a friend who stays on one of the islands in the Gothenburg archipelago to barbecue and swim in the sea.
Oh - and my holiday officially started today - I put on the automatic answer function :)
So tomorrow I'm going to go and get some 3 inch nails to use instead. I will also drill two holes in the lid to make it easier ot pick up.
But otherwise it is finished, which is good, since I plan to use it for medieval camping this weekend at Hunehals castle ruin, on their "Medieval day".
The photos aren't as sharp as they ought to be ;)
( See more... )Then next week I'll start on the next one - I don't want to have my flat filled with pieces of wood and plywood forever :)
Now it's mainly my friend Alfhild getting all excited about it, and the fact that I can again wear my regency stays, that has got me going about it. And that you can get cheep thin cotton from India. As I wrote yesterday I have ordered plenty of that, though partly for modern sewing projects. And yesterday, after a tip from isabelladangelo went to this etsy shop and bought my self a sea green vintage sari in a silk/rayon mix, to make an evening gown. I have also taken up working on my collection of images and photos of colourful regency dresses. What I do need now is more info on what to wear when you're no longer 20, but close to 50 in the period. I'm thinking lace caps, but I want to know more about what was considered appropriate.
This doesn't mean that medieval and renaissance won't be my focus period, but I look forward to doing a new period. Alfhild is coming over this afternoon so that I can help her with her stays.I'm not very good at that, but I guess that it's better than trying to fit them yourself.
The weather forecast had said that it would be rather cold and cloudy, with a risk for rain, but instead it was the warmest and sunniest day this June :)
To celebrate this I invited Inger over to share a bottle of prosecco that I bought when I went to Finland for 12th night coronation. We also indulged in popcorn and had a lovely evening together.
Today I worked soem more on the chests, but I ran out of paint and will have to buy more tomorrow. Then we went to my sister's place to celebrat4 her eldest daughter's 9th birthday. it as nice, but I was rather in an un-social mood, so it also felt good to leave after 3,5 hours and go home. Where I continued on my mint green early 14th century Italian surcoat - all that remains now is to sew beads around the neck!
Next week is the last week of work before my holiday, but I have slowed down notably since the semester ended. I was going to work on presentations for conferences, but I've mostly been reading. And walking a lot, for the exercise.
Last week I ordered lots of thin cotton fabrics from India and I can't wait for them to arrive.
This is going to be a regencey dress, because Alfhild and Gunilla has got me really enthusiastic over this time period again and I plan to have a regency picnic by the end of the summer.
Then I ordered three colours of thin plain cotton: dark blue, maroon, and teal blue. Thwe dark blue and marron are going to be peasant tops, and tthe teal may become that too, but foremost it's going to be a late 18th-early 19th century round gown. I think. It's definitely going to be regency in any case.
Midsummer is a really big thing in Sweden, though Rickard and I haven't celebrarted much the last 25 years or so. As logn as the kids were small we went to some park where thye could dance around the Midsummer pole, but after last year Maja declared that she wasn't interested anymore. Which is perfectly alright, and which meant that today I was the only one going ot the traidtional midsummer celebration at Gunnebo House, with my best friend and her boyfriend and sisters , and their families.
Gunnebo is a lovely 18th cnetury house and gardens and whenever I go there I feel that we have to have another 18th or (early 19th century) picnic there (this photo is taken at an 18th century picnic at Gunnebo). Today there was of course both a group showing folk cancing and dancing around the midsummer pole for the kids. I took some photos from the dancing, because I like both the dancing and the costumes.
Then we went to Inger's place and had new potatoes cooked with dill and herring, the traditional midummer food, but also barbecued chicken and corn and salads. And, as is the tradition, strawberries for dessert.
Maja and Rickard had arrived by then and we had a very pleasant evening. Despite the fact that it was raining and rather cold, but Inger has a roofed patio, and I put on my long wool stockings from the folk costume and a wool cardigan so I wasn't cold.