I needed another tuck in the petticoat. After doing the first five nicely, I did the world's sloppiest tuck above the ruffle. I'm sure it's not the first petticoat to have a giant sloppy tuck.
Then I tried the suffragette day skirt on over the petticoat to see if it would work, and figured I may as well mark the new closures, so those are done. I moved the snap, but just added extra bars instead of moving them.
So, I think everything that has to be done is done. I still want a new hat, but...
Before and after--no tucks and tucks!
I hate making tucks, but as I was doing it, I just reminded myself that adding tucks to a petticoat is much faster than making a new petticoat. And they're pretty!
I think this is short enough to wear with the suffragette evening dress now. And it should be a good length for the day skirt too, so I can pack less. The petticoat and a corset cover is much better for packing than a petticoat and a princess slip! And my new goal is to pack as little as possible so I can take as much extra stash fabric as possible...
Now, closures on the suffragette evening skirt...
So I decided to go turbanless (I don't want the faux sequined shawl for this) and actually tried to do my hair. I never practice hair. But I found out that my tiny curling iron will curl my hair from straight, which is good. I may or may not wrap the strip of fabric I hemmed for the bird dress around my head. We will see.
The plan had been to make the pants for the beach pajamas. And fix the straps. I moved them a tiny bit after checking them and didn't check them again. Never a good plan!
But it's earlyish. I still may do something...
The trip home continued my streak of good travel luck--not only was jennil at the airport (it was so nice to have more time to catch up! It's been so long!) my flight got in half an hour early!
I've even unpacked and fixed the handle on my suitcase--the screw in the handle came out. It was easy--unzip the lining, find the missing bolt, and screw it back in. I also tightened the other screws since they weren't sticking out of the backs of the bolts.
Anyway, I'm very much in the mood to sew, but I think I only have machine sewing. But I might make the beach pajamas belt by hand to avoid turning a tube. I hate turning tubes more than just about anything sewing wise...
Friday we drove down to Skellefteå for their Medieval Days event. This is the first time they have done this--they have a lovely site on a small island in the river, accessible via a foot bridge, and I think it will make a great annual event. I would have loved to have participated the full week, but I was also glad to have the time to work on projects for the house (working at Gustaf's counts as working at our place, since he put in so many hours on our landscaping first, so it is a good trade). It was kinda rainy on Friday, and I spent most of the day working on a nålbindning project while sitting in the pavilion of a cute Norwegian merchant (from whom I purchased some fur that looks good with the grey/black diamond twill wool I bought last year at Visby). Caroline had to work on Saturday, and the others were ready to head home earlier than I had expected. I considered just staying--one of the autocrats tried to convince me that even though I hadn't registered for the event I was very welcome--they have room in the crash space tent, and plenty of vegetarian food available. I considered it, but decided it was wiser to head home and accomplish stuff.
Since heading home we have:
* started painting the south side of the house (it has needed it for quite some time)
* did the hand-smoothing of the dirt on the terrace (which we will probably cover over with some sort of concrete or stone tiles, depending on what we find at a reasonable price) to make a nice outdoor entertainment area that doesn't need to be mowed (it would be bothersome to carry a mower down the steps to the terrace anyway)
* built a base for the support frame for the earth cellar roof (out of some birch trees that he cut down over near the shed on the bottom half of the property as they were in the way of the road that his bother put in)
* cleaned out the container
* bought some shelf support brackets (which he has welded into place inside the container)
* started power-sanding the wooden floor of the container (in hopes of getting the smell of old spilled oil out of it)
* done some baking for Hägnan
Now it is Monday and David has returned to work. I have started packing for the event, and will return to that momentarily. Tomorrow we go set up, and then we spend the rest of the week alternating between educating the public about the middle ages during the day, and enjoying an SCA event in the evening.
Backstory: Yesterday I went up very early to catch the 6.49 train to Gothenburg. But what hassle it was: I left the house and came up to the street and then realised that in order for me to get to the local station in time I would need to go by bike rather than walk. So I ran back and got my bike and made it to the station with four minutes to spare. Then I realised that I had left my bike lock at home. So, a quick ride back home, run upstairs to get the bike lock, and then quickly cycle to the main station, where I knew the train would have a 10 minute hold. As I had locked my bike and walked rapidly to the ticket machines, I realised I had left my train card (with 10% discount) at home. And going home now would mean to take the next train and arrive an hour later. So I decided to pay the full price and use my bank card. Then, as the train is approaching the next stop, my adrenaline has gone down to the extent that my brain is starting to run at normal speed - and I realise that I have bought a ticket to the wrong station.... Apparently my stressed brain couldn't see any difference between Båstad* and Borås (which is not even on the same line!). Short name, starts with B and has an Å and an S in it... Luckily the train staff was understanding, and I could buy a ticket from the next station where the train had a longer stop.
*: Last stop in my county. I have the local transport company's summer card which gives you unlimited travel within the county during the summer.
But apart from that the trip was fun. My previous visits to Gothenburg have either been as a child, when the promised amusement park visit was the main thing, or as an adult, when basically all I've seen has been the route from the train station to the university. I hadn't planned much: the town was founded in the 17th century, so there's no medieval churches or buildings. And the amusement park doesn't hold any interest for me anymore. So I went around window shopping, primarily in the area around the cathedral and in Haga. I was surprised how many cafés there were along the main street in Haga, and the size of the cinnamon rolls. One place takes pride in making the biggest ones - the size of a dinner plate! I can't think anyone but the hungriest student or teenage boy being able to finish one by themselves. The shops and cafés in Haga are almost all along one street, another surprise: from the general praises of Haga as being the place in Gothenburg for independent shops etc, I thought it would be several streets at least.
For all my intents of window shopping I didn't leave Gothenburg empty-handed: The best find was a Sami made letter knife of reindeer antler I found in a jumbled antiques shop. I realised I needed a letter knife in the office when an old book I had ordered from the library turned out to have never been opened before. Luckily the library was still open and I could borrow a letter knife of theirs to open the pages there.
Isn't it pretty!
The other things I got was not so much for me as for my balcony: a small blanket and two flower pots. I really hope I can sort out the balcony this summer, so I can at least enjoy it for some weeks before winter.
I ended my day in Gothenburg with a visit to frualeydis and her informal crafting Saturday: four women doing various crafts (from embroidery to mending to medieval illumination) and having a good chat. I wished I could have stayed longer, but there was a three hour train trip home to consider.
And by the time I got back it was dusk, and I had forgotten the bike lights, so for safety's sake I walked home. No need to risk getting fined! Once home, the evening finished with big cup of hot tea (needed! my top and linen shirt was not warm enough for evening temperatures) and bed.
I have foam core board to make a test run of the McDowll cutting system 🙂 So I may be able to get a third tool printed off tonight too 🙂
Oky, since posting that I actually have. My firt prints were twice the size, then 1/4.. now I think I have it. It looks right. I have them in light card and paper for cardstock so I’ll cut the card tonight and see if it looks right!
This system is mentioned in Cutting a Fashionable Fit and there have been a few examples up for sale:
OMG!!!!! $US80?!?!?! That’s less than my ink. So and an ebay search…..
Well, 44 psd files later… I have the pieces ready to cut. I have not, i repeat not tidied these ready for use! But I am going to do so 🙂 SO that means hunting down a Illustrator clone.
Oh here I get to complain about my printer.
It will not print in monochome if any colour ink is out. Oh, some versions of this model can do monochrome (ie it won’t attempt to use colour ink) but not this one. And those inks are of course not actually empty either. I mean I have to assume this troubleshooting page actually isn’t specifically for my model but instead a generic in disguise.
Not only that, you cannot turn it off using.. you know.. the power button. But I have been able to get it to work when turning the wall switch on and off. You know. A hard boot.
So, no. I do not recommend it. Two major issues that affect nearly every print job?
And the price of those inks!!! oh no you can’t buy them individually either.. It’s a feature.
So my cunning plan to have the cutting machine ready for my workshop has failed. No way I can run out get the ink and then print and then cut out before midday tomorrow :/
Well, except for ironing. Ironing is definitely not ready...
The beach pajamas are also well underway. I have a tiny bit--the neckband to be exact--more before the bodice is just handwork. Amazingly, the pattern fit straight from the envelope. I just lengthened the hem a tiny bit. Hopefully I'll get to that in a bit :)
I decided that I have wanted an authentic pattern drafting machine but I’ll never be able to afford one, so I’ve got a nice clear copy of a few originals and now with the power of image editing software it’s time to make some.
Step one, figure out where to scale.
Done and done 🙂 By the end of the day there should be a copy ready for any other drafting nerds 🙂
Also these might just be inspiring enough to hunt down originals 🙂
I probably could be done with it now, it just needs skirt closures and the skirt basted to the dress, but I knew I wanted beetle wing embroidery, so I started beetle wing embroidery. I was going to do a scrolly thing with smooth purl, but given that I've never done that before and I'd have to do it on the bodice itself, not in a hoop, I decided just spangles and beetle wings. Those I know don't have to have hoops! My two inch sample of sewing the purl down came out fine though :)
Then it it a time when it was also painfully slow to do anything in it, so David hooked up one of his machines to it and used SpinRite on it, and we did a few other things I don't recall, and it started behaving better. However, it still took ages to restart, so I continued to leave it on all of the time.
However, it was necessary to turn it off before packing it up to bring along when we headed south to Gustaf's house. All was well with it when I turned it on for the first time after we got here, and I was able to update my logs without any issues, after which I turned it off, packed it up and put it back into the camping trailer in which we are sleeping.
Yesterday mor I realized that it is time to turn in my Chatelaine's repot, and so got the computer back out, turned it on, and found it frustratingly slow to respond. I managed to write the report anyway, but had to keep pausing to let it catch up with displaying the previous words before giving it new ones. Then I introduced my computer to the house WiFi and tried logging in to Gmail. I don't know if it was my computer's molasses like speed or issues with the WiFi, but it couldn't manage to display Gmail. So I restarted the computer and tried again, but couldn't actually get anywhere. I couldn't even convince me to let me open Word to look at the report again. After a couple more re-starts I decided that I had had enough and used my phone to send a "report will be late" note and put the computer back into its bag.
This morning I tried again to turn it on, and have discovered that if I push one button or give it one key-stroke command and walk away for some minutes that it has done the task and is ready for the next task when I return. So I have, over the course of a couple of hours, managed to copy that report to a usb and tried to copy my logs. However, it wants to know if I really want to copy those files without their properties, and I have no idea why it thinks that it should discard the properties.
Ordinarily I could have David look at it and solve the problem, but while he is working 15 to 17 hour days on the great landscaping projects of 2017 that isn't an option.
Perhaps it is time to go look at it again and see if it has accomplished that last copying. Or I could check to see if the boys have any tasks I could help with outside (there are some, sometimes, but usually one to drive the digger, one to drive the tractor and one to move the measuring pole with its mini surveying computer into place to check the height of the working surface is enough).
While working on Padme and All Those Stamps and teaching Victorian patterning workshops and interpreting a portrait of Anne of Cleves I’ve been really able to think about the phenomenon of Accuracy again.
I am not sure how many people have pondered the inner workings of my mind but as a laurel, as a very long cosplay judge, and currently learning the Legion Costume Judging ropes for the Rebel Legion I’ve very definitely had lots of opportunity to take what feels intuitive and apply to the work of others- in a way that is not Judgey(tm).
I have seen a perfect description of reproduction vs replica but it’s been a while so to summaraise: you can try top reproduce an item as it was made, with exact dimensions and exact materials but is that actually accurate?
Extant objects (and character design) are specific objects for specific people.
So for anyone who is not an exact match there is always going to be interpretation.
What makes something more or less accurate is really down to understanding what the original creator thought was most important. Even if that goes against what current thinking is. It can be very hard to go against What Everyone Knows.
So I hoard patterns and tailors manuals not just because I like them but because they tell me what craftspeople in a region or time would know. So that I know what the ideal is. I look at how objects are manufactured (fabric widths, twists of yarn for sewing by hand versus machine, loom types.)
And then I go looking for extant items to see the reality.
And the reality shows where shortcuts are taken universally, Where the most mistakes are made, and where the most care is taken.
I want to think like a professional not as a modern person with the advantages and limitations I have in a workshop. Most of what I make has been the result of dozens of people. I am one person.
So to this end I have not just learned how individual objects that interest me have been made but I have an idea of what people wanted and expected and actually experienced.
One of the complaints of tailors in the 16thC was that fabric merchants sold fabric folded- because of the folds you expect there to be more fabric than there is so the client would buy the wrong length (due to the inner curve of the folds, I think.) This is super important when you are butting pattern pieces next to each other to use every scrap. A few inches shy and you can wind up way out.
Dressmakers of the 19thC flipped skirt pieces so often you see enough to think it was a fashion option not a common error- unless you read the manuals they were supposed to work from.
So accuracy or ideal, and what compromises need to be made now.
In deciding some scale or texture or fabric options I tend to prefer to use what I know a designer would do.
So for my Marie Antoinette gown I am basically only using historic patterns for my panniers. Everything else is from early costume history books and pattern books from the 1930s. My wig will be pale blonde vs powdered and I have to make concessions with the lace to be able to afford it. A few kilos of actual silver? Not really possible!)