frualeydis: (Default)
Yeah, you all know me: I have a tendency to get very enthusiastic about new things, so what I did yesterday is not so strange: I started on a pair of late 18th century transitional stays.

Anna has chosen the very late 18th century as her period for our upcoming regency picnic which of course fueled my enthusiasm. Since I had already bought white thin cotton to make a round gown to be worn either separately or with an open gown, the idea was there already. It was mainly the timing that was affected, since I had thought about making this later in the autumn.

Well, that was not to be: having run out of hand sewing projects that I could work on in the evenings - the embroidered smock I am making for  Valeria requires good lighting and eyes that are not tired - I needed another project. I started with the skirt for the round gown, which will have two rows of very pretty coral pink silk tabby ribbon around the hem. I could not, however start on the bodice before I had decided whether to wear it with my slightly later regency stays, or make a new, late 18th century pair.

And yesterday I decided to go for it. I dug out some strong linen for the stays, my just a little bit too large effigy stays to have some idea of size, and an extremly sturdy polycotton twill that I use for mock-ups for stays.

I also looked around on the internet and found several useful blog posts to help me figure out what I wanted to do.

These were the ones I looked at the most, two of my old friends here in the costuming world, and a new for me blog.

Festive Attyre

Katherine's dress site

Rococo Atelier

Most of these mentioned the book Corsets by Jill Salen, and I have ordered it on ILL, but of course I couldn't wait for that to arrive. So by studying the pictures on Rococo Atelier, which showed both her version with cups, and the original pattern with a gusset I came up with a pattern that I tried with enough success to go on to cutting the linen.

I got as far as making all the lacing holes on one front piece yesterday, and the rest this morning, and I have now also sewn all the boning channels on machine. Yesterday I was sorely tempted to make it all by hand, but sense prevailed, I have lots of real life work and many other projects to work on.

Since I don't have any white bias tape at home, and I'm not that interested in making some I am going to take a walk downtown and get it, as well as catch some pokemon.

frualeydis: (Default)
I need help from my knowledgeable friends who specialize in the 18th century.

Reading about Indian cotton textiles and their impact on the world I feel the urge to make myself sort of dressing gown from som of my 18th century-looking printed cotton. Also because I think that it would be nice to have a loose cotton gown to wear at home. But did women ever wear such gowns or was it only men who wore banyans? 
frualeydis: (Default)
My trip to England was not only beer, rock'n'roll, dolls, fabric shopping and lovely friends; it also had a higher purpose, since I was presenting at at conference called "The geography of luxury: east, west and global directions" held at the University of Warwick in Coventry. My paper was on Swedish sumptuary law and can be read here.
frualeydis: (Default)
Last autumn, when I went to a conference organized by the research project "Fashioning the early modern" (of which I'm not a part) in Stockholm, I heard Johannes Pietsch från the Bayerisches Nationalmuseum present a paper about the type of dress that we call a "robe à la Polonaise" and why this probably wasn't the correct period term. Ever since that I've felt that I really ought to summarize what he said and share it, but now I don't have to, becuase you can read his paper over at the "Fashioning the early modern" website: Naming a Woman’s Gown dating to about 1775 – 85.

1791 dress

Jun. 28th, 2012 11:32 am
frualeydis: (Default)
Oooh! Look at this gorgeous (at least what we can see of it) Danish outfit from 1791!
frualeydis: (18th century)
One always reads that the slits it the side of 18th century gowns were for the woman to reach her pockets which were hanging from the waist, unde rthe skirt. Well, I'm now reading "My amorous adventures", memories by a swedish nobleman from the 18th century and I see that they could have other uses too.

ETA: And I don't know if can stand 300 pages of porn just to find the clothing details.
frualeydis: (18th century)
Sort of.

Yesterday the city museum here in Gothenburg opened their new permanent exhibition on the 18th century. And since I didn't go to the picnic last Saturday I thought that it would be a good opportunity to wear my cotton print dress. I had my cotton petticoat and cotton print dress but had, like a artisan's wife or small shop owner could have done, spiffed it up with a linen apron woven in patterns, a straw hat with a silk crown and silk ribbons on the dress. I had also done my hair semi-high (with the helps of rats), but not powdered it. And of course I wore my frilled linen cap under the hat.

If I'm going to go to more 18th century events I think that I will need a pair of proper shoes and maybe even a wig, though I tend to stay below the strata where those were worn. But it would be a way to get rid of the very annoying banngs.
frualeydis: (18th century)
Apart from bows in the front (I'm going downtown to get ribbons and some other sewing notions soon)and possibly self trim around the neck and sleeves (but I doubt it) my 18th century cotton/linen print gown is finished. I need to make sleeve ruffles and I would like to make a larger cap with pleated details, but I don't know if I'll have the time (or energy) for that before Sunday.

As you can see I have pulled the edges of the gown through the pocket slits, I like the way it looks. I am wearing the apron from my folk costume, also an 18th century repro print, and a neckerchief.

More photos )

And yes, I will be wearing shoes and do something about my hair. I will maybe also wear the hat in my userpic.
frualeydis: (18th century)
The new 18th century petticoat, from possibly hand woven striped cotton or cotton/linen is finished, now I start on the gown, which is in a repro printed cotton/linen - red flowers on creamy white.
frualeydis: (18th century)
Should I be happy that my pink 18th century stays fit me perfectly, so that I won't have to make a new pair? And can use my old bodice pattern. Or should I bemoan the fact that I have regained the weight I lost two years ago?
(To be fair: since they are front-laced over a stomacher the fit is somewhat flexible and they could be smaller in the waist - as it is my waist is half an inch bigger with the stays on than without)
frualeydis: (18th century)
I was going to make an under dress in 15th century venetian style to wear under my wedding dress, which was made like an overdress, but worn just with a wide smock - sort of pre-Raphaelite-esque - but when I started looking for my wedding dress I couldn't find it. I must have packed it away somewhere in the storage years ago. I will look for it, but not tonight. So instead I decided to start on # 7 on this list: another 18th century outfit. The only problem is that I probably should make some kind of jumps too, since it will be lower class and I don't know if women from that social stratum wore stays. I'm not portraying a peasant or anything, just not nobility or wealthy bourgeoisie. I will have striped skirt in unbleached and blue linen/cotton and a gown from another, finer linen/cotton with a red print.

I plan to wear this on the 28th and that ought to be possible if I use the machine.
frualeydis: (18th century)
L'aretin Francais (I can't get the cedille on the c). Printed c. 1800, but as you can see the clothing indicates that the image was made a little earlier. It shows a husband discovering his wife in bed with a lover. There was a much increased output in pornographical engravings in France in the second half of the 18th century.

for obvious reasons behind a cut )
frualeydis: (18th century)
On Sunday there was a huge flea market in Majorna, a part of Gothenburg. Among the things I bought (mostly stuff for Maja) is these shoes, which I think with some fixing can be a reasonable fake for 17th and 18th century costumes. If I was doing those periods for real I would have bought replica shoes, but since I'm not I'm settling for something that looks reasonably good. At least for now. They were ca 6 dollars.

frualeydis: (18th century)
The picnic was held at a lovely small "summer castle" finished in 1796. The buildings and gardens are restored to how it looked then. There are also economy buildings and a kitchen garden, but we didn't go there. Instead we sat by the fountain in the formal, "french", garden and ate and talked. Except me who had to run around with Maja all the time - my feet are sore. The park is lovely though.

Me and Maja, of course:

More behind the cut )

I wonder

May. 15th, 2009 07:32 am
frualeydis: (18th century)
Having just paid for a piece of hand woven striped fabric, which I intend to use as a petticoat for a new 18th century outfit I can't help but wonder why I feel such a need for 18th century outfits - it's not like I have anywhere to wear them.
frualeydis: (maja)
Modelled by my lovely assistant Gudrun, one of my first dolls as a child.

Taking the advice from [ profile] isiswardrobe I used a straw place mat as brim and made a crown of silk taffeta. "Indiska", the shop where I bought it, didn't have any natural coloured place mat, so I ended up with a green one. I am so excited about this hat that I may buy a few more place mats in different colours and make hats for myself.
frualeydis: (18th century)
Look at these adorable children's shoes from c. 1730! They're at the Gothenburg historical museum.
frualeydis: (18th century)
My 18th century hat is now finished enough to be worn on Saturday's picnic. I do need to iron and starch my cap though.

frualeydis: (18th century)
I decided against cutting the hat, it would not exactly the right shape anyway, so I'm "compromising" by using printed cotton to line it, but keeping the original round shape. The same printed cotton as for Maja's dress.
But first: preparing and giving a birthday party for Maja with ten guests. I just hope that the parents have the sense to leave, so that I don't have to entertain them too.
frualeydis: (18th century)
I am not only interested in hat with the curious shape I showed in my last post, but in any kind of pictures of 18th century straw hats "lined" in printed cotton or linen.

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