frualeydis: (may)
I didn't manage to make this challenge before deadline. The theme for challenge nr 15 in The Historical Sew Fortnightly was "The great outdoors". My initial idea was to make a pair of plus fours for my husband. But the heat (now sadly missed) made me too tired to start on projects that required more advanced pattern construction (I really haven't made any trouser patterns) and that also involved wool fabric. I also didn't have any suitable fabric at home.
So I decided that the sporty 1940s jacket that I hade planned to make from a really green pinstriped wool remnant that I bought in January when we stopped at a fabric store on the way to my father-in-law's funeral, would be my entry. Unfortunately there wasn't enough fabric for sleeves. At first I thought about making sleeves from another wool fabric, but once the idea of knitted sleeves entered my mind it grew on me more and more. What I needed then was documentation for jackets with knitted sleeves from the 1940s. You find them in some Swedish folk costumes from the 19th century, but that doesn't say that it's period for the 1940s. Fortunately I have a collection of ladies' magazines from the 1940s and in one of them from 1944 knitted sleeves on a sporty jacket was suggested as a way of remaking an old suit.
Then I had to find matching yarn, which turned out to be impossible, but this Shetland wool is okay I think, especially after I had tea dyed the wool fabric to tone it down a little. The fake leather buttons actually match the sleeves' colour, which is just a happy coincidence, since I bought those on sale two years ago. In all it's very much an example of "Make Do And Mend" and as you can see I am ready for a walk in the forest.
The skirt is from challenge 14, the blouse was made by me a couple of years ago and the hat is vintage.



The Challenge: 15, the great outdoors
Fabric: wool, Shetland wool yarn, rayon lining
Pattern: not really, but it is remotely related to a 1940s house dress pattern that I own.
Year: 1940-45
How historically accurate is it? The buttons are plastci, otherwise I would say spot on.
Hours to complete: Too many, knitting takes time. Maybe thirty?
First worn: today
Total cost: around 200 SEK, approximately 30 dollars.

So, how did the entries in the challenge become two? To make something before deadline I entered a sporty 1930s hat from the same tartan wool as in previous challenge.

frualeydis: (may)

I missed the last challenge - not because I didn't sew anything historical, because I did: my 1920s kimono, but because while it didn't cost me more than 10 dolalrs, which was the challenge, that was just because the fabric was a gift and that felt like cheating.


Challenge nr 14, which was due yesterday I managed to make. Just, because while I knew that I was going to make a tartan skirt from wool and had the fabric it has been very hot here and sewing thick wool when it never goes below 30 C/86 F in the flat really isn't tempting. I've also been away on holiday for a week. It has now dropped to around 26-27 degrees C (79-80F) so it has been possible to sew.


I'm also wearing a 1930s jumper from Susan Crawford's "A stitch in time 1", which I finished in May, but haven't shown here.

The Challenge: #14 Paisley and plaid
Fabric: tartan wool, rather stiff, maybe some other fibre, it was a remnant
Pattern: drafted myself
Year: 1930s
How historically accurate is it? Unless there’s polyester in the wool 100%
Hours to complete: six maybe
First worn: today
Total cost: c 8 dollars

frualeydis: (Default)
Not very thought out, I used my bendy foam sticks, which was a little tricky with this short hair. And no, prodcuts, but I usually don't, damp hair is enough for most occasions.  But when I'm feeling this ill I don't have the energy to try anything new. Maybe next time. So now the hair isn't curled in any particular direction, like you ought to, but it looks okay anyway.

Shameless posting of photos in which I think that I look pretty )
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Spending weeks rubbing my sweaty hair into a pillow wasn't very good for my har, especially not after last years bleaching. So it needs to be cut and I woner if any of you have any experience with this pdf- book? Or has any other tips; I suspect that I will have to show the hairdresser how to do it.

This is what I'm aiming for I think, since I must cut off so much of the damaged hair I have to go quite short:

Like Sickan here:


Or like the shorter hairstyles among these pretty girls:



And look at these:


I guess that you start with a bob. I used to have curls when my hair was really short, but not enough for most of these looks. But I have a curling iron and I'm not afraid to use it. No one that I know has had any good experinces with perms, so I will not use it, at least not now.

Or should I buy the Vintage Hairstyling book? Or just go and ask for a bob?

In any case I have a horrible cold that won't let me leave the house for quite a while.
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The internet and all the people who put up pictures of historical clothing and old photos, has given me so much, for many of the years that I have made historical clothing. So I want to give something back. I  have my web site though rarely updated these days, and I have this blog, and my other one. But I wanted to contribute some more, so I started uploading images from Swedish adverts from the magazines from 1930s to a Pinterest page. It's mostly fashion related, but also some ads I just found funny or interesting.
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The theme for the third HSF challenge is pink. I still have some of the cotton/silk satin that I used for my 16th century dress from Lyon, that would be nice for some kind of more structured underwear, but with my not-yet-healed surgery would on my belly and, the inside being all swollen that really wasn't an option. I didn't want to buy new fabric either, but luckily I had a yard of silk jersey that I bought from Thai Silks nine years ago. So I went in the opposite direction and decided to make something very soft: a pair of '20s to '40s jersey bloomers. A little like these, which are from a Swedish mail order catalogue from 1941.



I cut a part a pair of long-legged panties I've had for years and used as a pattern, ending up with these pieces:


While my machine can sew more advanced (though not very) elastic seams, this is a historical project so I went to a 1940s sewing book to see how you should sew elastic fabrics:
More pictures )

I still need to make the channels and insert the elastic at the waist and legs, but that shouldn't take too much time.
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You can find more about the type of dress and this dress in my other blog, here.
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It's not only finished, I'm actually using it while doing the laundry together with Rickard.

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I just wish that I was a thin (relatively speaking) as the Grand Sophy, my dress dummy.

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I have decided that for this challenge I am going to make a late '20s-early '30s wrap over house dress. While there was propaganda for this dress type already during WWI in the US, they didn't have their breakthrough until the '20s and really  didn't reach Europe until ca 1930, so I feel justified in calling it an innovation. Because it really is, it was designed for a whole new type of middle class housewife: someone who actually did her house work herself, with none or just a smaller part of it done by servants.



Usually I make my housedresses in a way that accentuates the waist, but with the wound not yet healed and my abdomen still swollen after the surgery I think this earlier typ will be better. The fabric, which I got from Stoff&Stil a couple of months ago also has a very '30s look and colour. It wil be a pretty, rather than just utilitarian house dress, so I will probably add a flounce to the collar.
   
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For various reasons I didn't join last year, but this year I will join Historical Sew Fortnightly. My reasons for not joing was that I mainly, as you know, make '40s inspired clothing for everyday wear these days adn teh end date last year was 1938. And that I knit instead of sewing. But many of you did and it made me really inspired. The whole idea is inspiring and when the last date for what was allowed was moved from 1938 to 1945 I just couldn't stop myself from joining anymore. There will be some "real" historical costuming too, but I guess that most of my  projects will be from the late '30s-early '40s.



The first challenge, which is due on the 15th of January is "Make Do and Mend" so I have, after more than two years gotten around to do something about the 30s style wool dress above, which got a hole right in front of the skirt when our storage suffered a moth infestation. The wool is too thin to darn and I don't have enough to make a new front, so I have instead cut out a new skirt part from a medium blue thin wool twill. From the whole parts of the cut off skirt pieces I will make a skirt for  Valeria.
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Since I've been in too much pain to think, or even read anything more complicated than a cheesy romance I've read before I have (with very long breaks) made a new dress from my well-tried '40s wrap dress pattern. I definitely don't have the brain capacity to modify patterns now so teh only changes from previous versions is that the skirt is slightly gathered and that I made a new type of sleeve, which I got from a dress from 1936 in Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion 2.
Since I wanted to do the dress justice I put on tights, shoes, necklace, bracelet and lipstick. And put up my hair - you have to say that for not being allowed to bathe for a few days to avoid getting bacteria inside the joint after injecting cortisone there: Slightly dirty hair is so much easier to put up.



The fabric is a cotton print I got extremely cheap from a place called Jonic Textil in Sweden.

The beige fishnets I looked for last week, and then found at What Katie Did arrived today . Here I'm wearing tights but I also ordered beige stockings and black tights.




Close-up of sleeve )
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I'm making 1936 sleeves taken from a dress in PoF. And listening to Sator.



I was at this concert, it was brilliant.
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I am now on my third toile for the bodice of the dress i wrote about in the previous post. As I suspected it fitted me over the hips and waist  and was a little too tight over the bust (and way too much of the width in the back compared to the front) and 4 cm too wide on each shoulder. The problem with the fit over the bust was actually rather big, since the pattern definitely wasn't made with a larger bust in mind at it pulled the fabric forward from the armscyes in a totally impossible way. So first I had to widen it in front and make the shoulders much narrower and straighter and then I added a dart from the bust point to the armscye, which I later drafted away when I made a new toile. I am not finished fitting it yet, but I have some hope that it will work out. At least the skirt looks good.
But it is a pain when you can be content with clothes that don't fit.

Oh, and over at my other blog I made a post with French fashion from 1930-31.
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Spring has reached Sweden too, Sunday it was warm enough that I could go in a dress with short sleeves and no jacket as long as I stayed in the sun, but now it's rainy and grey and most of nature is brown-ish rather than green.
The weather is, however, perfect for my 1930s jumper with the gigantic shoulders, so here you get a photo Valeria took of me outside our house today.


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Even if it has snowed even down here in the south of Sweden today was warm enough to go out in just a sweater, albeit a very thick one.


frualeydis: (Default)
A month ago I started on a jumper from the book A stitch in time, which is a collection of british knitting patterns from 1920-1949. Since it's me we're talking about I of course had to make the most extreme of all designs: a jumper from 1934 with huge sleeves. (Apparently it's so extreme that even on Ravelry you can't find anyone who's actually made it, at least [livejournal.com profile] herzeloyde says so, I haven't checked myself). I had to unravel the lower edge of the sleeves, because even if I intentionally made them shorter than the pattern they still were like three inches too long. But other than that it went rather smoothly even if I'm in no way an experienced knitter. [livejournal.com profile] herzeloyde sometimes had to help me interpret the instructions (and also help me when I had been drinking and knitting on Beltane).
Anyway, here it is:

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