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The dress was actually finished already yesterday, but by then I was felleing too sick to take photos, and it was anyway too dark to get any good photos. These aren't particularly good, but you can see the dress.



Back, and sleeve detail )

The pattern is a 1940s pattern that I won in a giveaway at the New Vintage Lady´s blog a couple of years ago.
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When went to Ikea yesterday I found this fabric and bought 2,5 metres of it to make a dress. it's slightly heavy for a summer dress, but I thought that was an excellent quality for a sturdier housecoat type of dress. I decided to use the same pattern as for this dress, now sadly worn out.



I am surprised that I had the energy to do this today, because I was really tired after work. But apparently I found some new energy around 8 pm. Not enough to do more than cut out the pieces, but that's the boring part anyway.

I think I want to add piping in teh seams, I wonder where I can buy that - or do you have to make it yourself?
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I actually made something not medieval. The fabric is from Shepherds Bush market (not very spruprisign) and I got it when we went to London in January. I'm using my trusty wrap fron dres spattern, though slightly enlarged, obviously.


More photos )
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So, as I promised [livejournal.com profile] clothsprogs: photos of my finished Lacey-inspired dress. I finished it yesterday and took it out for walk today. The fabric is a polycotton twill that I got from my dad and the embroidery is cotton floss.



antoher one )
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I have worked too much today to finish the embroidery on the hip, but here's a photo of the embroidery on the shoulder on my new dress.

frualeydis: (may)
In a very convoluted way it is [livejournal.com profile] clothsprogs fault that I have now embrodered flowers on one shoulder, and possibly will put flowers, on one hip of my new dress. It was he who introduced me to Lacey Smithsonian and thus it is his doing that I got inspired by one of Lacey's outfits in the latest book and felt that I desperately needed a navy dress with emboridery in lilac and pink assymetrically placed on one shoulder and one hip.

Yes, I do love you Teddy!
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I have been away far too long. My other blog has been updated somewhat frequently, but not as much as I would like to. Still, hter eis too much to catch up with, so I'll just pos tlots of photos from the dolls house, where quite a lot has happened in the last months.

A typical Swedish turn of the century dinner set, influenced by the Jugend and Arts&Crafts movements. It is usually referred to as "Apple furniture" because of the carved apples. I bough it as a kit from Kotte Toys.



Plates and (very large) glasses in the cupboard, coffee grinder and traditional Christmas candle sticks on the counter.


 As you can see the kitchen also got Christmas curtains made from quiliting cotton.
More pictures )

And, finally, the whole dolls house, before they brought in the tree.
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Yesterday and today I made some new clothes for the dad in the dolls house.

yesterday evening he got some undies, sewn by hand as Maja and I watched Professor Balthazar on DVD. The undershirt is cut in one piece with an opening for the neck cut out. It was sewn together with small blanket stitch and then turned and put on. Then I turned teh edges at the cuffs, neck and waist and stitched them down.
The longjohns were cut out and sewn on directly to the body. The material? Well, I wanted a thin soft jersey so I sacrified and old par of panties. At least i didn't make dish cloths from them.



Much more )
Daddy putting more wood in the stove.

frualeydis: (may)
I didn't manage to make this challenge before deadline. The theme for challenge nr 15 in The Historical Sew Fortnightly was "The great outdoors". My initial idea was to make a pair of plus fours for my husband. But the heat (now sadly missed) made me too tired to start on projects that required more advanced pattern construction (I really haven't made any trouser patterns) and that also involved wool fabric. I also didn't have any suitable fabric at home.
So I decided that the sporty 1940s jacket that I hade planned to make from a really green pinstriped wool remnant that I bought in January when we stopped at a fabric store on the way to my father-in-law's funeral, would be my entry. Unfortunately there wasn't enough fabric for sleeves. At first I thought about making sleeves from another wool fabric, but once the idea of knitted sleeves entered my mind it grew on me more and more. What I needed then was documentation for jackets with knitted sleeves from the 1940s. You find them in some Swedish folk costumes from the 19th century, but that doesn't say that it's period for the 1940s. Fortunately I have a collection of ladies' magazines from the 1940s and in one of them from 1944 knitted sleeves on a sporty jacket was suggested as a way of remaking an old suit.
Then I had to find matching yarn, which turned out to be impossible, but this Shetland wool is okay I think, especially after I had tea dyed the wool fabric to tone it down a little. The fake leather buttons actually match the sleeves' colour, which is just a happy coincidence, since I bought those on sale two years ago. In all it's very much an example of "Make Do And Mend" and as you can see I am ready for a walk in the forest.
The skirt is from challenge 14, the blouse was made by me a couple of years ago and the hat is vintage.



The Challenge: 15, the great outdoors
Fabric: wool, Shetland wool yarn, rayon lining
Pattern: not really, but it is remotely related to a 1940s house dress pattern that I own.
Year: 1940-45
How historically accurate is it? The buttons are plastci, otherwise I would say spot on.
Hours to complete: Too many, knitting takes time. Maybe thirty?
First worn: today
Total cost: around 200 SEK, approximately 30 dollars.

So, how did the entries in the challenge become two? To make something before deadline I entered a sporty 1930s hat from the same tartan wool as in previous challenge.

frualeydis: (may)
Yesterday I made a dress for me and today I made a shirt for Rickard from the Tardis/starry night (inspired by the "Vincent" episode of Dr Who) fabric that I bought from Spoonflower a year ago or so. The dress pattern is Vintage Vogue 8728 from 1946. It was rather simpel and the only major changes I had to do was to add 2" in height over the bust. The shirt is made from a vintage Swedish pattern from the 1960s that I think used to belong to my mother.





Close-up of fabric )
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When I first got interested in sewing and wearing the fashions of the 20th century I bought a couple of DVDs with musicals from the 1940s and '50s (I have many more now). I love musicals, especially the cheerful type, so that seemed like a reasonable buy. On of the films was "Pin-up Girl" with Betty Grable, from 1944 and I've seen it many, many times, always bursting out " I want that" when seeing the costumes of the main character and her friend. I've now made a Pinterest board with stills from the movie too. I made my first try at recreating the yellow suit four years ago, despite not finding anything remotely like the right fabric. You can see it here at my web page. The fabric in the suit was a cotton twill and the fit wasn't right, since I wanted to be able to close the jacket and also cut it too much after my shape; the original is probably not curved at all. On the other hand it's very hard to make this kind of jacket when you have a large bust.

A few years ago I found a better fabric for the suit: a mix of viscose and polyester with a great drape and a few weeks ago, in the beginning of May, I made a new version of the suit and a new blouse. The blouse is made in a reproduction of the cotton print used in the movie and it's from Spoonflower, and made by Charlotte, who has the blog Tuppence Ha'penny. This time the blouse is less like the original though, since it has a drawstring around the neckline instead of being gathered and having a piece of ribbon sewn over the gathers. I didn't feel like doing extra hand sewing at the time and I also didn't have a ribbon in the right colour at home.

I am of course much fatter than Betty Grable, but you can't let things like that stop you.



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Spending weeks rubbing my sweaty hair into a pillow wasn't very good for my har, especially not after last years bleaching. So it needs to be cut and I woner if any of you have any experience with this pdf- book? Or has any other tips; I suspect that I will have to show the hairdresser how to do it.

This is what I'm aiming for I think, since I must cut off so much of the damaged hair I have to go quite short:

Like Sickan here:


Or like the shorter hairstyles among these pretty girls:



And look at these:


I guess that you start with a bob. I used to have curls when my hair was really short, but not enough for most of these looks. But I have a curling iron and I'm not afraid to use it. No one that I know has had any good experinces with perms, so I will not use it, at least not now.

Or should I buy the Vintage Hairstyling book? Or just go and ask for a bob?

In any case I have a horrible cold that won't let me leave the house for quite a while.
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The theme for the third HSF challenge is pink. I still have some of the cotton/silk satin that I used for my 16th century dress from Lyon, that would be nice for some kind of more structured underwear, but with my not-yet-healed surgery would on my belly and, the inside being all swollen that really wasn't an option. I didn't want to buy new fabric either, but luckily I had a yard of silk jersey that I bought from Thai Silks nine years ago. So I went in the opposite direction and decided to make something very soft: a pair of '20s to '40s jersey bloomers. A little like these, which are from a Swedish mail order catalogue from 1941.



I cut a part a pair of long-legged panties I've had for years and used as a pattern, ending up with these pieces:


While my machine can sew more advanced (though not very) elastic seams, this is a historical project so I went to a 1940s sewing book to see how you should sew elastic fabrics:
More pictures )

I still need to make the channels and insert the elastic at the waist and legs, but that shouldn't take too much time.
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As I wrote in yesterday's post I had a wool dress in 1930s' style which had got a moth hole right in front on the tummy. The "Make Do and Mend" challenge gave me the kick in the butt I needed to do somethign woth it, except packing it down for summer and packing it up for winter. I made the new skirt from a wool twill that I bought from a friend a couple of years ago when she sold out most of her fabric stash. To tie the two pieces of the dress together visually I also made a new collar (as you can se in the post below it had a white cotton collar) from the blue wool and made patch pockets from remnants of the glencheck wool used in the bodice and sleeves. This time I made the skirt shorter, to the, to me, more flattering "little-above-the-knee" length of the 1940s.
From the lower part of the original skirt, which didn't have moth holes I made a skirt for Valeria. I feel very thrifty.



More photos )
The Challenge: # 1 Make Do and Mend
Fabric: 100% Wool tabby and wool twill
Pattern: Not as such, it started its life as a '70s pattern, but has been heavily re-made to a) fit me and b) to give it more of a 40's style. You can see here another example of how I changed this "1970s does 1940s pattern" into a 40s dress.
Year: ca 1940-44. Typical for the war years with its combining of materials and rather short skirt.
Notions: Four plastic buttons, a zipper for Valeria's (modern) skirt
How historically accurate is it? Wool was a common dress amterial in the 1940s, unlike now, so the materials are good. It has machined button holes, which wasn't common in home made clothing and the plastic buttons are probably from another type of plastic than the one used then. While the pattern is from the 1970s it has been changed enough to make the pieces look like what you can find in an original 1940s pattern. The sleeves are taken from an original 1940s pattern too. Mixing fabrics like this gives it a very authentic look for the war years (at least in Europe) where every scrap available was used. I have studied many sewing patterns and Swedish women's magazines from the period and I think this would pass without comment or notice. (The magazine on the "old" photo is one of the leading Swedish women's magazines, from 1945)
Hours to complete: Not many, maybe five, including Valeria's skirt.
First worn: For photos I wore it today, but since I'm at home recovering from a hole in my duodenum, surgery and four weeks in hospital it may be a while before I wear it "officially". It will be great for work when I get back though.
Total cost: Nothing now, since everything is from stash, nothing newer than two years old. However, if I try to remember the price of the two fabrics I would end up with c. 150 SEK for fabric, which is about 29 USD, and then 20 SEK for a zipper (for Valeria's skirt) and 16 SEK for the buttons, so in all ca 35 USD. The lining in Valeria's skirt was scraps I can't calculate the value of.
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For various reasons I didn't join last year, but this year I will join Historical Sew Fortnightly. My reasons for not joing was that I mainly, as you know, make '40s inspired clothing for everyday wear these days adn teh end date last year was 1938. And that I knit instead of sewing. But many of you did and it made me really inspired. The whole idea is inspiring and when the last date for what was allowed was moved from 1938 to 1945 I just couldn't stop myself from joining anymore. There will be some "real" historical costuming too, but I guess that most of my  projects will be from the late '30s-early '40s.



The first challenge, which is due on the 15th of January is "Make Do and Mend" so I have, after more than two years gotten around to do something about the 30s style wool dress above, which got a hole right in front of the skirt when our storage suffered a moth infestation. The wool is too thin to darn and I don't have enough to make a new front, so I have instead cut out a new skirt part from a medium blue thin wool twill. From the whole parts of the cut off skirt pieces I will make a skirt for  Valeria.
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Very cheeful and colourful, isnt it?

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It used to be that what I hated most about sewing was zig-zagging the edges. But now I have developed a kind of zen attitude to that and don't mind it so much. So what I hate most now is the cutting of the pattern pieces. It's the whole process of cleaning off the kitchen table, of thinking about if I want to change something in the pattern etc. So tonight when I finally forced myself to cut out a new blouse I cut two blouses while I was at it, and it really feels good to see all those peices, waiting for me to zig-zag them tomorrow.

It's two 1940s style cotton blouses, one with short(ish) sleeves and one with long sleeves.
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Since I've spent quite a lot of time at the beach lately I got the idea that it would be nice to have something pretty to wear when you're having a break from swimming and play with a frisbee for example. or when you yourself has finished swimming but your kid haven't and you walk around at the water edge. Or you can put it this way: An invented need is also a need :)
So hubby and I went to a fabric store and I bought the red polka dot fabric. The blue fabric, the ric-rac and the buttons I already had. The buttons are from the Salvation Army and probably from the 70s.
It is a little big, but my main concern with this dress was not to show of my figure, but to make something comfortable. And pretty.



More... )
Other than that I'm slightly hung over and really ought to write on article which should be finished on the 15th, but instead I'm going to see a friend who has a summer house in the archipelago of Gothenburg. I also sleep too little, but for excellent reasons.
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As I wrote previously, Victory of the Daleks is a Dr Who episode from 2010 where the Doctor and Amy travel back in time to London in WWII, where they meet Winston Chruchill. And Daleks. So I thought that it was a fitting name for a 1940s style jumper with a fair isle pattern with Dr Who theme. The pattern for the jumper is from Susan Crawford's A stitch in time 2, and the chart for the Dr Who pattern is made by Amy Schilling and can be found here for free.



New dress

May. 19th, 2013 12:58 pm
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Well, it was finished over a week ago, but I had to have the time, energy and help to document it. The pattern is self-drafted, except for the sleeves which I took from a 1936 dress in Janet Arnold's "Patterns of fashion 2". The skirt is a full circle. The fabric is old - I found it in a dark corner where Gårda Textil, the shop where I nowadays get a lot of my fabric. They have vintage fabric for cheap there - this cost 40 SEK/metre I think. I thought that it was viscose and washed it as such, but when I started really working with it I felt the typical silk smell. After a burn test my suspicions were confirmed and I now have party dress in silk.

I'm posing both without a petticoat, for a more authentic (late) '40s look (yes, I know that I have purple hair) and with a huge tulle petticoat. I think I like it best without the petticoat. The shoes were on sale for 75 SEK (c. 7 pounds) on H&M a few weeks ago. The dotted tights (with a seam) are from What Katie Did and the pretty necklace is from Pimp your garb.



more... )

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