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 I have now, finally, written baout my high-waisted teal Italian gown on my costuming blog/.

Go see!

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Today a hairnet that I comissioned from the talented Laura Hämäri who has the site and blog Knots in a Net arrived in the mail.
It's based on extant nets and I am so happy with it.

I had to try it on. I knew that I had fill it with some extra, fake, hair, to make it puff out at the sides as they do in 13th and early 14th century images, but I didn't have the energy (I've worked way too much today) to figure out the best way to add it, so I just pinned a false braid to my real hair and put on the net.
Even then I think that it looks great.


More photos here.

I will get proper photos taken at Double Wars. Where I'm wearing a shift under my gown, for instance. :)
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 I'm putting off posting about it on my strict costuming blog until I have made Måns' gown too, and have photos of us together, but Rickard took some photos of me today.

It's still shorter than I'd like it to be, mainly because brocade with metallic threads tend to be rather stiff and I didn't take that into account enough. But it's pretty.

Without belt

With belt

The inspiration. Of course I can't go without a veil, not at my age and general respectability ;)

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Last week I started on my new mi-parti gown from blue and white brocade (shown in this post). To my surprise the direction of the pattern was different on the white and dark blue fabric, so I had to do some invisible piecing on the blue, to make it long enough. Unfortunately a lining the pattern made the whole thing a little shorter than I wanted. First I thought about piecing the fabric again, but then I decided to make a ca 4 inch (10 cm)  wide strip of matching white and blue silk dupioni or taffeta, or something else that withstands being dragged at the floor better at the hem.
I'm going to go downtown today to get that fabric.

Yesterday I cut the sleeves and sleeve linings and sewed them to the body of the gown and it looks rather nice. Though the dark room makes funny stuff with colours and the flash likewise ;)

It's actually almost 4 metres (over 4 yards) wide at the hem, but it doesn't show well in the photos. I will put in the orange lining today, and hopefully also the silk strips at the hem. Then I can start on baron Måns' matching gown. I decided to not have any buttons on my sleeves, but he will need them to get his hands through the wrist openings, so I hope that they arrive soon(ish).

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People have asked me to write about (my) fillets, so I made a long blog post about it.
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My work on Valeria's Eleonora di Toledo gown procedes slowly, but steadily. It does take time to stitch around all the edges of that trim. Thank the Gods that there are so many Drizzt Do'Urden audio books :)

Yesterday the brocade and lining for mine and baron Måns' new outfits finally arrived too.
Behind cut )

The plan is to finish these for Double Wars, in the end of May. However, I have plenty of stuff to do before that, so we'll see. Maybe Valeria's will be finished then too, though it isn't much of  a camping outfit.
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Now I'm going to shorten two pairs of jeans for Rickard and than make waffle batter, because in Sweden today is waffle day.
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I've taken it in 4-5 inches over the bust, letting it slope out from there to the hem. And remade the sleeves to fit the new armscyes.

Smaller boobs is a Very Good Thing!

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After not making any (or at leat very few) medieval clothes for a long time, due mainly to having a lot of them already, I of course had to go an get obsessed about a year ago, making lots new clothes from ca 1300.
And now I have lost 18 kilos and will probably lose at least five more, and while you can wear this styel with very varying weight, they do look bette rif they're not too large over the bust. And since I have lost weight there too (hooray). I will have to remake a lot of clothes, including the shiny investiture gown. That will have to wait though, because I'm going to wear it this weekend and I don't want the stress of picking it apart and remaking it before Friday.

I have, however, started on this one. It's a bit easier, since it's not lined. Though more hand work since I have to fell seams again.
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I will write about the trip later, right now I have to get Maja to school and then try to save some stuff I messed up at work, which need to be fixed this morning.

But, sicne I was going to Bologna, and it really was the Bolognese school of painters, which I found out about last visity in September, which sparked my interest in early 14th century Italian dress I thought that it would be fun to have some photos of me in garb from Bologna. I only brought one outfit, from thin silk that didn't take up that much space or weight.

So yesterday morning Rickard and I sneaked out to take this photo (and a few more) under the portico of the 13th century Palazzo Grassi.

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Yesterday we had sewing meeting at my place and my friend Anna helped me even out the hem of my mint green kirtle. The satin had been stretching like crazy (cutting it was a nightmare) and finally we decided that the best we could do was that I put it on and she cut the fabric while I wore it - pinning it would have been useless, sincethe fabric would have moved in all directions when I took the kirtle off and put it on the table.

To stabilize it I used a cotton bias tape to hem it, like I had done around the neck line. While cotton bias tape certainly isn't period, using tape or strips of fabric to stabalize things is. It's all hand sewn anyway - I would have haed to sew this fabric on machine.

These are just quick photos, I put on a slightly supportive shift (that badly needs ironing, if you see lumps showing through the satin) and hubby took some quick photos. No headwear or anything, just shift and kirtle.

mintgrön kjortel färdig2

When I have forgotten how much I hated cutting the kirtle I will start on the surcoat from the same fabric. It may take a week or so ;)

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I absolutely hate my body right now, even tramadol doesn't help :( It's like when you have the flu: every little part of you body aches.

I had a really nice half day at work yesterday, chatting with colleagues and actually getting somewhere on a lecture I am holding next Wednesday, but when I got home I was so ill that all I could do was to lie down on a mattress we have on the floor in the living room for this purpose. I was shivering from cold so I had both my quilt and a woollen blanket. And I fell asleep while listening to the third book in the Dark Elf Triology, Sojourn.

After dinner I got a little better and watched DS 9 while finishing the sleeves and starting on the neckline of my pale green Italian early 14th century kirtle, but by the time it was time to go to bed I was bad enough to have to take two tramadols (instead of one) again.

The good thing with that is that I wasn't in that much pain when I woke up at five am (when Rickard goes up to go to work) and I could take my morning pills and go to bed and fall asleep again. This makes it much nicer to wake up at 6.30, when it's my time to get up. Now (9 am), howver, the effect is wearing off and I have to see how long I can last without having to lie down again.

While Maja watched telly and had breakfast I managed to finish the neckline on the kirtle, so now all it needs is afew beads around it and then I'm going to let the whole thing hang for a week or so, before shaping the hem, because the satin stretches like crazy!
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It was finished last week, but I needed to have some photos taken of course.

More photos, info and discussion over here.
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I've written a long blog post (or at least image heavy) on high waisted fashions of the late 13th century and the first half of the 14th century in Italy. I have also reached the conclusion that some of them actually must have very high waist seams. it doesn't fit with anything I have learned this far, but I can't explain away images like this.

Blog post.
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I started working again this week afte the holiday, and it was okay. I would have preferred to hav holiday of course, but there are quite a few thigns that I need to do before the semester starts on the 1st of September. Also, there was only me and one other person there most of the time, so it was really easy to concentrate. And I wasn't tempted by sewing, knitting or any other thing that I could do when I'm at home. So I commented on a student's essay, went throgh hundreds of e-mails, wrote a four page abstract for an anthology that I'm hopefully going to be in and started on the research for a paper that I'm, presenting in Bologna in September. I'm still on sick leave (and will probably be for the rest of my life), which means that I only work 15 hours/week, so I think this was actually rather good.
After work I have been out hunting pokémons, which is probably very good for my health, knittign, sewing, making scrolls etc. I have also started to have sewing/craft meetigs for my local SCA barony once a week. They're on Thursdays, when Rickard is away playing X-wing. Not that he minds having people here, but sometimes there's quite a lot of us and he does like his peace and quiet. This week I made a new "chin strap" and veil for my early 14th century wardrobe, painted a scroll and did some mundane knitting.

Next Thursday there won't be a meetig at my place though, because I am flying over to Visby on Wednesday, and will stay until Friday (Saturday is my mother's seventieth birthday). I will miss court by one and a half hour, which is both sad and good. Sad because I like courts and good because I won't need to pack my crown :)

The main purpose of the trip is to hang out it with [ profile] helwig and [ profile] liadethornegge, and to sign my apprenticeshop contract with the former. And to spend time with Renika, where I'm also staying.

I will also get the chance to wear my new red wool Manesse gown, and my new green wool surcoat with lots of metal flowers sewn on to it. A gown which I have NO good photos of. Mainly beacuse I haven't worn it.

I will also bring my old murrey gown to have something that I won't care so much if it gets dirty.

Gotland is suffering from severe drought and we are adviced to save water as much as possible, so I will take a bath at home before I leave and when when I get back to Gothenburg. So I will bring at least two shifts so I can change. Actually, that's how I usually do it a Medieval Week: one shower in the middle of the week and three or four shifts to change between. People shower too much anyway.

Hopefully by the time that I leave I have gotten somewhere on one of my new lectures for this autumn, on historical cotton trade.
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Yesterday I finished the printed gown. It has taken less time than expected, since the only wayt to stand the pain from my arthirtis rigth now is a) to take tramadol and b) to try and distract myself. Hence lots of sewing.

The cut is based on the gown of St. Elisabeth of Thuringia, from the 13th century. The buttons are made from red wool.

The gown is partly machine sewn - that is: the straigth seams are sewn on machine. But it's amazing how much hand work there still is on a machine sewn gown: All the seams are felled by hand. All hems are of course made by hand, and for the sleeve openings that meant first whipping down the edges, then sewing a bias strip over that and then making the buttonholes. And the buttons.

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So, a frined and I have decide to run for baron and baroness in our little barony of Gotvik, principality of Nordmark, kingdom of Drachenwald. Sicen he said that he wantd to wear 2dersses" I ahve temprarily put my 16th century (and 15th century) projects aside to get back to one of the periods that I have doen the most: the 13th and early 14th century.

This far I have made a new veil, gone through my garb from this period, bought wool, and silk lining for tunics and ordered silk brocade for another tunic.

But most of all I have collected more images and written a lot of (mostly) research-y blog posts.

I made a silk brocade pouch

Patterned clothes in the 13th and early 14th century

Some coloured and patterned veils in the 13th and early 14th century

More lined veils

13th century underwear

Fancy, patterned braies in the 13th century

My murrey sleeved 13th century surcoat

A 13th century striped veil and blue silk cotte that I made

Par vestimentorum - a set of clothes

Clothing in Isabella de Bruce' trosseau from 1293

I also finally finished my Isabella di Toledo silk stockings.

Busy days

Sep. 12th, 2015 10:47 am
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So, what has happened since last time:

I've done some sewing and some knitting.

Started on a new 16th century bodice.

Made a gardecorps for Maja

And a 16th century German roll and cap.

And a doublet/wams from [ profile] mmcnealys book.

Most of all I have however been ill, a cold that just won't give up combined with a flare in my arthritis. I've done my teachign and I'm working an a presentation that I am going to give in Florence next Saturday.

I have also taken part in some demosntrations and work for the Syrian refugees arriving in Sweden, though not much due to that blasted cold, mostly monetary help. Which, on the other hand is what is needed mostly: money and time, not used clothing.

I also finally finished the sauna for my dolls house, so now the bathroom is totally finished.

My cold is slowly getting better so my plans for today is to make book case for the dolls house, work on my presentation some more and then attend a demonstration for safe routes to Europe for the refugees, the abolishment of the Dublin regulation and the law that makes transportation companies liable for refugees not granted asulym, which is why people fleeing are not allowed to buy a flight or ferry ticket, but are forced into rickety boats on the Mediterranean or being smuggled in trucks or in containers.
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But I've made the web page about Rickard's outfit from ca 1300. It's here

Eye candy

Jul. 29th, 2009 02:17 pm
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We've been taking photos for the final part of my master's test in Nordrike today. Not perfect, but good enough, which means that I can work on the web site later tonight. If I feel like it.

Anyway, I just wanted to show how gorgeous my husband is - at least in my eyes.

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