frualeydis: (Default)
My hand sewn effigy stays have been finished for almost a month, but now I have actually gotten around to taking some pictures. There will be more of them later on my web site, as well as a description of how I made it, the mistakes I made etc. But for now, here are two pictures:

As you can see it fits perfectly now.
That is good. What is not so good is that most of my 16th century clothes are now too big. Including the Anthonis Mor dress. For that dress it's just so little that it is solved just by wearing the green kirtle I made for it instead of this corset, but other dresses are really too big.

But a good thing is that I now can get into a very pretty dress I made in 2002, from light green brocade with metal threads and which I have only worn once. I will have to remake the bodice however since it is 8 cm too wide at the waist. It does fit over the bust, but the square neckline is a little too small; I can see that now that I know more about 16th century dress than I did when I made it. But if I find the energy to remake it, it really is a very pretty dress. I'm not sure about the trim I used, but most of it will have to be taken away anyway if I'm remaking the bodice.

The cord

Mar. 10th, 2007 06:36 pm
frualeydis: (Default)
The first trial got too thick. And not very pretty either. I've done quite a lot of tablet weaving, so I don't think it's so much a matter of technique as of taste. Maybe I'll just twist a cord, or use a commercial 5 mm cotton tape. Or try again. But I will take a break from it now and work on my red silk petticoat instead tonight.
If Maja lets me, she's been ill all day, refusing to eat and being really cranky.
frualeydis: (Default)
Because I have decided to be totally and absolutely crazy with this project I've decided to make the lacing cord with tablets. You can make round cords from tablet weaving if you always put the weft in from the same side, thus wrapping the cord while weaving. This is an old technique and there are several examples found in the excavations from medieval London. I will use the thickest of my vegetable dyed silk for warp and a thinner silk for weft. The colours are muted, so it won't be a stunningly beautiful cord, but at least a both functional and period correct one.
I'm using just 3 tablets (4 holes in each) and I'm still afraid it may be to thick for the lacing holes, but one never knows before trying.
frualeydis: (Default)
The effigy stays are now finished. I'm considering weaving the lacing ribbon, since I can't make that long fingerloop braids. But that may be taking it too far.
Does anybody have documentation for lucet cords in the 16th century; I know the evidence for it from the middle ages is circumstantial at best, but maybe there is more from the 16th century?
frualeydis: (Default)
I just tried on the finished hand sewn effigy corset. I fit, but it was obvious that it was too long. The splits for tabs started two inches below my natural waist and even if they liked long torsos in the latter 16th century that was too long.
So I took a pair of scissors and cut through the fabric, seams, binding and reeds. Now I need to take away what's left of the chamois binding, secure the boning channels and bind it again.
frualeydis: (elizabethan)
Or at least half of it. And the stays almost fit! Still a little tighter than I like, and with a little gap. But they fit well enough for me to finish them and hope for further weight loss. This far I have only lost a little less than an inch in the waist and an inch at the bust, but almost three inches in the tummy/hip area. If I loose more I know from experience that the waist and bust will shrink too, it's just that I carry most of my fat on my tummy. So eventually I it will fit me perfectly. And if it should ever get too big I guess I could put some of the boning back again ;)

Bad picture taken in mirror )

I need to sew a little more on one of the lacing holes since it got a little worn during yesterday's abuse.
frualeydis: (elizabethan)
I'm going to try and take half the boning out. The reed are about double the thickness of the split cane [ profile] myladyswardrobe used in her stays, so even if I'm a lot fatter I probably don't need double reeds in every channel. I will keep them in a few of the front channels, but otherwise they will be pulled out. Not too easy since some of the boning channels are narrow, but I'm sure it can be done.
frualeydis: (elizabethan)
I just tried on the fully boned corset and there's a 6 cm gap! And it's not exactly comfortable then either. I took the pattern from a too large corset, so I took it in a couple of centimetres. I didn't count on it being such a large difference between a fully boned corset and an only partially boned corset. When it's laced too tight to be comfortable, I'm still larger than when I'm wearing my green kirtle, so the boning definitely takes up space.
So now I have several options:

1. Take out half of the boning, either putting just one reed in every channel or having two reeds in every other channel, and see if that helps.

2. Make extra panels at the sides. That would look a little odd with the tabs and I have also run out of reeds.

3. Exchange the reed for something flatter, like plastic whalebone.

4. Finish it as it is and continue to loose weight.

5. Open it in the back and make it into a back- and frontlaced corset.

Of course number four is my favoured solution, but I'm not sure I would loose enough. Maybe taking out boning would be the best solution, because I may never be able to wear it comfortably with the Anthonis Mor dress, and that was sort of my idea.
frualeydis: (elizabethan)
The holes are sewn, the pieces are whipstitched together and I'm busy boning it. Inspired by [ profile] liadethornegge actually counting her boning channels I counted mine: 30 on the back and 25 on each front, of varying length of course.
frualeydis: (elizabethan)
All the boning channels for the effigy corset are now finished. So all it needs now is 20 lacing holes (one side), sewing it together, boning it and binding it with leather. It should be finished before I go to the Winter games next friday. But I need to make a pair of sleeves from thick wool too.

And a huge picture )
frualeydis: (Default)
Both front pieces are now sewn, and I've made 10 lacing holes. But since there are only 2 cm between them and I have a long torso there is a great many left to do. According to the Elizabethan costuming page the original had holes 5/8" apart, which is 1,6 cm, but I couldn't make out if it was between the centre of the holes or between the sewn edges of the hole, so I decided to go for 2 cm as a compromise.
frualeydis: (elizabethan)
The first piece of my hand sewn effigy corset is finished; except for lacing holes and binding, which will be done when the corset is finished.

It's made from hand woven linen, probably made by my paternal grandmother, or by her mother. The thread is linen and it is waxed before sewing to smoothen it so that it doesn't get worn.

I started sewing the boning channels yesterday and continued after dinner tonight. I would guess I've worked seven hours on it. If I continue like this it may be finished in time for the Winter Games. Tomorrow I'm going down town to get some chamois leather to bind it with.

Fun sewing

Feb. 11th, 2007 09:21 am
frualeydis: (elizabethan)
As you may recall my sewing resolution for this year was to only sew fun stuff, things I wanted to do, no matter if I need them or have somewhere to wear them. So there was 18th and 19th century and some modern clothing. And then some stuff I will have to do, like 16th c clothes for my husband and new clothes for the kids. But, as I said, I don't need more pre-1600 garb.
Well, in this resolution lies of course the right to change ones mind. So I have started on my hand sewn effigy corset. I want to make more 16th century clothes and then I really need a corset that fits me well and that I like. I'm making it the sixe of my green kirtle, that I wear under my Anthonis Mor dress. It was made two years ago, when I was the smallest I've been for many years and it isn't likely that I will get much smaller. Yes, I may loose more weight, in fact I hope so, but there is very little fat on my rib cage, so I will not get much smaller there. And since the desired shape is conical the size of the waist and bust can't change much either. It will be small now, but wearable, and it will hopefully fit me better later. Since it's the same size as the green kirtle I can wear it when I wear a red petticoat with my Mor dress too, like the woman entering the room to the left in this picture.
frualeydis: (elizabethan)
So, I want to do something fun, i.e. sew something. But I don't know what. I have cut and partly sewn a pair of sleeves for my peasant kirtle, but my hands are hurting so much that I doubt more hand sewing is a good idea. And they're not exactly fun.
I don't have any fulled wool I want to use for my warm sleeves to wear with the red sixteenth century gown. And that would also mean more hand sewing.
I think I need a new effigy corset. The comfy corset fits me nicely, but I need a corset that compresses my bust more, since otherwise my old dresses won't fit and I would also like to have a corset with tabs. But there's a problem: I can either start on my planned all hand sewn effigy corset, from hand woven linen and boned with reeds, but that would be bad for my hands. It's also not ideal to start such an ambitious project when I'm in the process of loosing weight. Or I could make a machine sewn corset quick and easy. The problem here is that I would love to use plastic whalebone then, which I don't have and which isn't sold in Sweden. So I would have to order it from England.

So instead I waste time on LJ and wander around the flat aimlessly.

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