The only problem with cutting gown skirts in a circle is that the don't look like the pictures. The very pronounced pleats at the waist aren't there if you cut the skirts as a circle.

But I've never heard of this pattern books of Waffenrocks! Can you give me the names of those books? I thought the construction of Waffenrocks (particularly the closures) were a mystery as well!

The underbodice idea is intriguing (and of course, possible). I just think that Cranach's typical subject -- small busted young girls -- didn't need that kind of support. So they didn't have it. But it does make engineering sense.

It's amazing how much stress my Netherlandish gown will take. That's what makes me think that if I get the Cranach "engineering" right, so will it.