frualeydis (![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png)
frualeydis) wrote2007-09-06 09:29 pm
frualeydis) wrote2007-09-06 09:29 pm
How to increase your amount of garb without actually sewing
Loose weight.
Suddenly I can wear lots of my old garb. (Of course it means that there is also garb that has become too big, including most of my elizabethan stuff)
I had a friend over who was interested in one of my old loose 15th century surcoats (not wide enough to justify the term houppelande I think). So I had Rickard take down the "15th and some 16th century chest", which I hardly ever touch. Well, I looked in it and tried on most of the clothes. Result:
Cotton damask ca 1500 french/flemish gown with wide-ish sleeves and v-opening in back: fits, but needs kirtle and a band of contrasting fabric around the hem since it's too short. And I could stand to lose another kilo or two. Last (and first) time worn: November 1995
16th century Saxon court gown in dark yellow cotton velvet and light blue cotton damask, of the less common type with gored skirt (can be seen in a few Cranach paintings): Almost fits, see gown above. Needs petticoat and new headwear + new lacing cords. Last (and first) time worn: November 1997
Burgundy 15th century tight-fitting overgown with gored skirt in thin wool, based on french illuminations of dancing peasants: Fits, but needs short-sleeved kirtle. Last time worn: autumn 1999
Red and black german gown from 1525, in wool and velvet: Fits, may have to be taken in a little at the waist. Needs petticoat, gollar and headgear, and better lacing cord. Ideally the bodice should be shortened a little too. Made in 1997, last time worn: Renaissance days in Kalmar 2000. Here's a bad photo, and the inspiration:
As you see I had bad headgear but a gollar. Unfortunately I lost the latter when being very drunk at the aforementioned Renaissance days. Another picture from that event can be seen here, I'm the one wearing a cap. That was however the night after, when I was sober.
Suddenly I can wear lots of my old garb. (Of course it means that there is also garb that has become too big, including most of my elizabethan stuff)
I had a friend over who was interested in one of my old loose 15th century surcoats (not wide enough to justify the term houppelande I think). So I had Rickard take down the "15th and some 16th century chest", which I hardly ever touch. Well, I looked in it and tried on most of the clothes. Result:
Cotton damask ca 1500 french/flemish gown with wide-ish sleeves and v-opening in back: fits, but needs kirtle and a band of contrasting fabric around the hem since it's too short. And I could stand to lose another kilo or two. Last (and first) time worn: November 1995
16th century Saxon court gown in dark yellow cotton velvet and light blue cotton damask, of the less common type with gored skirt (can be seen in a few Cranach paintings): Almost fits, see gown above. Needs petticoat and new headwear + new lacing cords. Last (and first) time worn: November 1997
Burgundy 15th century tight-fitting overgown with gored skirt in thin wool, based on french illuminations of dancing peasants: Fits, but needs short-sleeved kirtle. Last time worn: autumn 1999
Red and black german gown from 1525, in wool and velvet: Fits, may have to be taken in a little at the waist. Needs petticoat, gollar and headgear, and better lacing cord. Ideally the bodice should be shortened a little too. Made in 1997, last time worn: Renaissance days in Kalmar 2000. Here's a bad photo, and the inspiration:
As you see I had bad headgear but a gollar. Unfortunately I lost the latter when being very drunk at the aforementioned Renaissance days. Another picture from that event can be seen here, I'm the one wearing a cap. That was however the night after, when I was sober.
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Waist about 75cm, actually 71 atm, but I'll go for a little extra because it can be eased tothe back. Then using a spot of math:
C=2r(pi) (Simplified to C=6 X the radius) so for a normal circle skirt I'd wind up with a radius for my waist at about 12cm, that winds up as about 37cm. With a skirt length of about 115cm this is 152 from the centre of the circle to the hem at any point, so with some creative peicing (possibly covered by guarding) uses the same length of material as a regular circle skirt but with far smaller scraps from which to make anything. I still need to do a plotting diagram for 115cm wide because I could then finish off my green velveteen with one frock;)
I'm more concerned with the amount of fabric at the hem than the waist in the case of circle skirts. I have two full circle skirts and the hem is already huge and drapes more than in several of the paintings. In the example shown my full circle skirt hem would be 7.24m if pleated it winds up 9.12m. So luckily it's not that great a difference, well it is but not as much as I worried about;) Differences in height and girth though will make a difference.
I've played about with a number of skirt variations and prefer the look of gores close to a quarter circle in shape (with room for ease or pleating at the waist) for most styles of German dress. I was not going to do this for silly striped dress of doom though. Now with my mad templating skills I probably could have. Ah well. A tube of roll pleats worked a treat.
Thanks for bring this up Kass:) For two reasons: firstly I tend to think in a geometrical manner when it comes to costuming so some things are instinctive for me but not for others and the reverse is also true. Secondly that I have so much more work to do on my skirt tutorials! I was reminded I didn't have a plotting diagram for napped fabrics and now I don't have a plotting diagram for pleated options. And an even more in depth explanation of how the maths really works and how fabric can sometimes mess with that.
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