frualeydis: (Default)
 Anna had to sew all the night before (she stopped at 5 am, slept three hours and continued sewing), but her dress got finished except for trimming. I made small chicken pies and bought fruit and almond biscuits for uss, which was very nice to eat on the lawn outside the beautiful 1796 summer house of Gunnebo.

I've put lots of photos over at my costuming blog, including a photo of me not wearing anything ;) After the picnic Anna and I walked through a lake and had a swim before going home.

I won't clog up this post with lots of photos, since you can find them here, but here's two. 



 



Tomorrow I will re-make another modern skirt, so that I have something to wear to work now that term has started again.

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It needs ties and trimming, but otherwise it's pretty nice and will work well with my velvet spencer I think. It's from raspberry pink silk shantung. I had hoped that there would be enough velvet for a hat, but there was only small scraps left when I had finsihed the new collar.

rosa regencyhatt


frualeydis: (Default)
 I finished the velvet spencer on Tuesday, but I was not happy with how the collar looked. I had scooped out the neck too much in the back. So yesterday I ripped off the collar and started on a new version. It won't solve the whole issue, but hopefully it will look better.  It is now past 8 am, so I think that I can safely start sewing it. And then work, of course, but since I only work part time I can arrive rather late at work.

Anna has finished her transitional stays and they look amazing on her, and yesterday we worked on a toile for the bodice of her gown, which means that she will be finished with her outfit for the picnic on Saturday. I will make the picnic food for both of us, so that she can sew the whole Saturday morning too.
frualeydis: (Default)
 Well, actually I love velvet, but not sewing it, my entire kitchen is covered with raspberry pink lint.

Apart from making lint I am going to make a spencer for Saturday's picnic. Just to ensure that the weather stays nice and warm. 

I really want to start on it now, but since I'm using the sewing machine for htis and live in a flat I think I ought to wait until after 8 am.
frualeydis: (Default)
 Well, it appears that this is by far my most popular post on my costuming blog - can't see why ;) 



In other news I started on a spencer from velvet remnants yesterday. I was disappointed to find that there wasn't enough for long sleeves, but accepted this as you must accept what can't be changed.
The I found some more scraps of the same velvet and now I have to decide whether I should piece the sleeves at elbow length to make them full length or not.

That decision will probably be postponed to this evening though, since I have my first lecture this semester today and has stuff to do at work before that. Yesterday I suffered from quite a lot of anxiety about this, but now I feel much better, despite the fact that the department just moved and I don't exactly know where I am to teach.

Oh, and Anna loved her blue silk bonnet.


frualeydis: (Default)
Yeah, you all know me: I have a tendency to get very enthusiastic about new things, so what I did yesterday is not so strange: I started on a pair of late 18th century transitional stays.

Anna has chosen the very late 18th century as her period for our upcoming regency picnic which of course fueled my enthusiasm. Since I had already bought white thin cotton to make a round gown to be worn either separately or with an open gown, the idea was there already. It was mainly the timing that was affected, since I had thought about making this later in the autumn.

Well, that was not to be: having run out of hand sewing projects that I could work on in the evenings - the embroidered smock I am making for  Valeria requires good lighting and eyes that are not tired - I needed another project. I started with the skirt for the round gown, which will have two rows of very pretty coral pink silk tabby ribbon around the hem. I could not, however start on the bodice before I had decided whether to wear it with my slightly later regency stays, or make a new, late 18th century pair.

And yesterday I decided to go for it. I dug out some strong linen for the stays, my just a little bit too large effigy stays to have some idea of size, and an extremly sturdy polycotton twill that I use for mock-ups for stays.

I also looked around on the internet and found several useful blog posts to help me figure out what I wanted to do.

These were the ones I looked at the most, two of my old friends here in the costuming world, and a new for me blog.

Festive Attyre

Katherine's dress site

Rococo Atelier

Most of these mentioned the book Corsets by Jill Salen, and I have ordered it on ILL, but of course I couldn't wait for that to arrive. So by studying the pictures on Rococo Atelier, which showed both her version with cups, and the original pattern with a gusset I came up with a pattern that I tried with enough success to go on to cutting the linen.

I got as far as making all the lacing holes on one front piece yesterday, and the rest this morning, and I have now also sewn all the boning channels on machine. Yesterday I was sorely tempted to make it all by hand, but sense prevailed, I have lots of real life work and many other projects to work on.

Since I don't have any white bias tape at home, and I'm not that interested in making some I am going to take a walk downtown and get it, as well as catch some pokemon.






frualeydis: (Default)
 Yesterday I came up with and idea for Anna's birthday present - she doesn't expect one, but she's one of my best friends so of course she should get one. Since she earns about double as much as I do buying stuff seemed pointless, so I decided to make her a bonnet for the Regency picnic. Then she won't have to worry about that.
Her dress is c. 1800 and will be made from yellow silk with blue ribbons to trim it, so I dug through my plastic tub with silk, and found some scraps from a lovely blue habotai that is now, with the help of some linen and fusible interlining (for the brim) a soon finished very pretty bonnet. All it needs is ties, and I will make those tomorrow.

Hats!

Aug. 17th, 2017 11:30 pm
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Apparently hats was the theme of the day. First I made a sort of bonnet with a fabric crown.

lila bahytt_sida


Another photo )Then I lined my straw bonnet.

bahytt med grna band, fodrad

Takign selfies while trying to show off the bonnet is NOT easy.


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Today, instead of working I got dressed and took Rickard with me out on the lawn outside our house to takesome photos of my new regency outfit. This is my first attempt at rag curls, and except for curling too much hair I am reasonably satisfied. The lace cap was finished at breakfast this morning.

regency petrol fully dressed_front4

I will make a proper page for it over on my costuming blog, but not now, sicne I am - after all - supposed to be working :) Tonight maybe, though I'm going to spend most of the eveningover at Anna's plae, encouraging her to work on her transitional stays, and making a chemisette.
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So today started with a long walk to a manifestation for afghan refugee kids who will in all likelihood be deported back to Afghanistan by Sweden. It is absolutely horrible and a disgrace for my country, but I won't dwell on that here, because this blog is supposed to be about historical clothes and sewing. But I must say that the only way I can continue to live my life as it is when this is happening is to not let myself feel, to push those feelings away, because it is heartbreaking to know that these young boys will be sent away, very likely to die.

So I pushed it away, and enjoyed our walk, and the sun, and when I came home I sat down to sew, and  and listening to The Cleric Quintet on audio book. This is was the last day of my holiday, so I thought that I'd do something that I really enjoy.

First I started re-making my regency stays again. I showed the first re-make in my previous post, when I had taken them in c. 8 cm. However, while they worked as they were I knew that my bust would look more correct if I shortened the bust gores. So that's what I did.

Yesterday I was at my friend Anna's place contributing with advice and moral support (and artificial whale bone) when she started patterning her first stays, late 18th century transitional stays with cups. While talking (i'm good at multi-tasking ; ) I took in my regency petticoat.

Current version of stays and petticoat:




When they were first made:



Then I started on the bodice. I made the sleeves yesterday, though I think I may have to re-do them, they are maybe too wide. We'll see how it looks when they are sewn in to the bodice.

First I had to make a new pattern, but with the help of my previous, too large pattern, or at least the front piece, since I couldn't find the back piece, it wasn't that difficult.

Apart from the usual sources such as Patterns of Fashion and Kvinnligt mode under två sekel by Pernilla Rasmussen and Britta Hammar, I also looked at a couple of patterns from the internet, generously shared by the 19th US Regiment of InfantryCapt. Angus Langham's Company1812-1815.
Here you find their images and patterns of extant gows and outerwear.

And I sort of make it up as I go along. It is all hand sewn, as the rest of my regency clothing except for the stays, which were a test version whee only the lacing holes in the back are hand sewn. And making things by hand you can do it piece by piece and figure out, for example, exactly where to attach the skirt later. So I am basically making it up as I go along. There is one narrow channel more to make, the bodice will be gathered in front, before I have to figure out the skirt. And I can do that tomorrow, when I'm less tired.



Of course

Aug. 13th, 2017 03:15 pm
frualeydis: (Default)

 Of course, being me, I will now remove the bust gussets on the regency stays and shorten them. They work as they are, but they will (probably, I will of course try it before cutting) will look better with shorter gussets so that the boobs end up higher.

Yesterday I re-made the petticoat and also sewed the sleeves for the teal gown. Unfortunately I think they turned out too wide, but I will see when I have made the bodice.


frualeydis: (Default)
 The embroidery on the skirt of my new frock is finally finished (the photo is too light).



Now to decide exaclty what typ of bodice that I want, and make a pattern for that. First I'm taking in my petticoat however. I'm bringing the petticoat, and the fabric for the bodice over to Anna's place tonight. The main purpose of the visit is to help her make her first stays, ca 1790-1800, but I may get the time to do some sewing myself too.

Later this night I may go down town to a manifestation held by child refugees from Afghanistan who are going to be sent back by Sweden (one of a very few countries who dperot peopel to Afghanistan right now). In Stockholm such a manifestation was attacked by nazis a few days ago, so there is a need for grown-ups, and native Swedes, to protect these boys, espcially during the dark hours.

Valeria and I spent 2,5 hours there last night, between 10.45 pm and 01.15 am, playing cards and chatting. Se's going down there now and I will probably get down later.

frualeydis: (Default)
And turned, in this case, since the print really wasn't historical enough. Lots of images here



I've written a short blog post about Italian 15th century coifs here.



The photos are taken by the hospital next to where we live. 19th century architecture can apparently work well as background for Italian renaissance to
And after the photo shoot we raided at the gym there and I finally got an Articuno. Probably the only time someone played Pokémon Go in renaissance clothes around here.

In other news: The holiday was very nice, I bought 15 metres of cotton fabric: 5 metres for curtains in the kitchen (we have three windows, one rather large), 4 metres for a white late 18th century round gown, because obviously I need one of those. I have som printed chintz to use for an open robe over it, cotton broadcloth for a wrap skirt, since I only have one neutral knee length summer skirt that fits me. Patchwork hippie skirts, or ric-rac in abundance is fine, but sometimes you need something more neutral. I also got white, thin cotton broadcloth if I need to make another regency petticoat. Or something. And 2 metres of cotton wit a Halloween print that I hemmed on machine to make it a table cloth for our traditional Halloween dinner.

The first thing I did when we got home on Friday evening was to wash all the fabric and on Saturday I made that skirt.

rd omlottkjol

The blouse is another holiday find: The Salvation Army's 2nd hand shops have racks with blouses for 39 SEK (c. 4,7 dollars) and I bought this one, which is from H&M, and one that I don't think has ever been used, made from white linen.

20170725_122025


BTW, here are my holiday photos.

While on Holiday we went to a large, traditional market, where I got lots of cotton hankies, good quality bed sheets, some red and white striped piping, a heart shaped baking tin and two straw hats which will be partly unraveled and made into bonnets.

DSCN2070

Some of the fabric was bought at Tygladan, which is close to my home village, and some was bought at Kristinedals fabriker, which not only had lots of nice, cheap fabric, but also used to be a mill making both wool and cotton/linen yarn for weaving.

20170727_150033

This was when we visited our friends Kristina and Jonas, who just happened to have this in their barn :)

20170727_132540_001

I did some sewing while on holiday too: I hand sewed most of a new shift for Valeria, it's going to have embroidery at all the seams, and along the sleeves, so I can't add the sleeves until I've made that embroidery. I'm getting supplies for that today. And when I had done as much as I could on the shift I started embroidering on my regency gown again, and I think it will a) be finished for the picninc on the 2nd of September and b) be really pretty.
frualeydis: (Default)
So, aside from taking in my stays and making a new bonnet (that needs to be lined, so to not snag my hair) I have sewn the skirt of my blue gown together, hemmed it, and started on an embroidery around the hem. The pattern for the embroidery is from the cap of my folk costume, which is dated to the late 18th or early 19th century.




I was lazy this time and just cut the place mat to shape, instead of unraveling the braid and shaping it while sewing.
The blue colour is seen in several late 18th-early 19th century pictures, though then probably made from silk, and not from cotton. Inspiration for embroidering it was gowns like this, with a dark background and colourful embroidery.


Which of course is silk, and has a much more rich and complicated embroidery. But I think my gown will look pretty with its cotton embroidery. The pattern I use is the same as on the cap of my folk costume, which is roughly from this period.

I have also bought material for another bonnet: a braided place mat and a cotton satin sheet that was reduced by 70%. It will be enough to make a summer spencer too.



The other gowns I plan are to made from a saree that hasn't arrived yet, and from this printed thin cotton:



The bonnet with purple cotton satin is of course intended to be worn with that gown.

I also bought these shoes on sale yesterday, and though the metal details aren't to my liking, I think they will do. Especially after I've painted over the brass ;)








frualeydis: (Default)
I was going to spend the whole day yesterday working on two scrolls for the prince and princess of Nordmark, but I have gotten so enthused about regency clothign so I couldn't help myself converting a straw hat that never fit me (very 60s style with a tall crown and rather closed brim) into a bonnet. The tall crown was a definite plus in this project.


bahytt med gr�na band2


bahytt med gr�na band1

Now I must get back to working on those scrolls.
frualeydis: (Default)
 I made the apron yesterday, and the cap today, so this afternoon Rickard and I could go outside and take some photos of the new Italian gown.

 


More images and info here.


I also took in my regency corset while watching an old adaptation of "Sense and Sensibility" together with Alfhild.



I really am tanned this summer. I usd to spend my summers avoiding the sun, so to not have a tan at Visby Medieval week in August, but some ten years ago I realized that I can't let my hobby rule my whole life. And that I like the way I look with a tan - and besides it's good for my psoriasis.
And convincing for a working class woman of the Quattrocento ;)




frualeydis: (Default)
I haven't made anything from this period since 2006! (the outfit in question) Then I was inspired by the then very lively costuming community on Livejournal, above all the work of [personal profile] koshka_the_cat

Now it's mainly my friend Alfhild getting all excited about it, and the fact that I can again wear my regency stays, that has got me going about it. And that you can get cheep thin cotton from India. As I wrote yesterday I have ordered plenty of that, though partly for modern sewing projects. And yesterday, after a tip from [personal profile] isabelladangelo went to this etsy shop and bought my self a sea green vintage sari in a silk/rayon mix, to make an evening gown. I have also taken up working on my collection of images and photos of colourful regency dresses. What I do need now is more info on what to wear when you're no longer 20, but close to 50 in the period. I'm thinking lace caps, but I want to know more about what was considered appropriate.
This doesn't mean that medieval and renaissance won't be my focus period, but I look forward to doing a new period. Alfhild is coming over this afternoon so that I can help her with her stays.I'm not very good at that, but I guess that it's better than trying to fit them yourself.
frualeydis: (Default)
 Yesterday my friend Alfhild came by. She had visited another friend who wants to make both regency and Victorian clothes and was really inspired to  to make some too. So we dug out my books, and then I got inspired to show my stuff and ended up openignboxes with costumes which hadn't been touched for years. They are kept under our bed, and unfortunately our cat Mysko had managed to get into one of them and had puked on my 18th century shift, and an antique lace shawl. The shawl was too delicate to wash, so I just gave up and threw it in the trash. The shift will be washed next time we have the laundry room, next week, and hopefully it can be saved. But Mysko was very cheap for anyone wanting to buy him then ;)

Anyway, I dug out clothes and I tried on clothes, and to my great joy my empire corset still works, though it has to be laced wholly shut at the back. The same was the case with my smallers 18th cnetury corset, though it should ideally be taken in at the waist - it's too tight at the top if I lace it shut, and too loose in the waist. I'll see if I'll do somethign about that, I have a partly finished robe à la francaise that I started 14 years ago, which would be fun to finish I guess.



My gown to go with the regency corset will probably be too big, I didn't take the time to try it on.

Squeee!

Oct. 24th, 2007 07:17 am
frualeydis: (empire)
OMG, I was lazy and didn't check out [livejournal.com profile] tailordrews' link immediately, so didn't realize that the national museum in Denmark had put up photos of all the clothing in the Moden-books. Including the orange knitted regency dress. The colour was a little disappointment for me though, there was only a b/w photo in the book so I envisioned something in a strong, obnoxious orange and not this nice colour.

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