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I got accepted to the "Inside out: Dress and Identity in the Middle Ages" conference at Fordham University next March!

This creates all sort of trouble, since we had planned, and announced that we would have the SCA event St.Egon's feast that weekend and I really have to be there because a)I'm stepping down as baroness, and b) I'm the feastocrat.

So now I've dumped this problem in the lap of my poor friend Alfhild, who's the seneschal, and also autocrat for the event.

It makes me sad and stresses me - but still: New York!

I am very excited, since I've never been in the US before.





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A bunch of photos:

Today's outfit: A 2nd hand linen blouse, trousers from Heyday inherited from Anna's sister. They were given to Valeria when Sara (the sister) grew out of them, but I nicked them today (with Valeria's consent), a ten year old cardigan that I think was from H&M. The checked jacket I made this spring, the cap is knitted by me some years ago.

outfit170919_6 outfit170919_2

The cardigan is now way too big, so I have to tied it in front if I want to use it.
Since I have short legs the trousers are too long, but they fit Valeria as they are so I won't shorten them.

My latest article arrived in the mail yesterday. There's some very interesting other articles in this, the 2nd issue of 2017, of Costume too.
min artikel_2min artikel_1



And I got the best idea for the first slide on a power point presentation for my lecture of fashion, body and gender through history:
Mode, k�n och kropp

 
Other updates: Berlin was nice, though I didn't get to see much of the actual city since I arrived late on Wednesday, spent two days indoors at the Kunstgewerbemuseum, from 10  am to 6 pm and caught the train back 7 am on Saturday. Being environmentally responsible means 12-13 hours of traveling instead of 1,5. But apart from sleeping too little the nights before traveling, and worrying about delays, since I had to change three times on the way,  I actually enjoyed the train trip.
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it is very interesting to see the typical Swedish mistakes I make, when getting editorial comments on articles. You can really see the Swedish construction of sentences, phrases and use of prepositions in some places :) Swedish academic writing is done very much in the passive form, which leads to phrases and constructions that just don't work in English.
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...I defended my PhD dissertation Kläderna och människan i medeltidens Sverige och Norge (clothing and the individual in medieval Sweden and Norway).
Most of you were around then, and before that, so I won't go into details.



In a way can't believe it's already ten years, it doesn't feel like that. In other ways I can see what those ten years have done to me; I am so much more confident in my role as a researcher and teacher now.

I will not celebrate it in any particular way, except not working any more today and instead have some tea and continue on a craft project.
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So, a frined and I have decide to run for baron and baroness in our little barony of Gotvik, principality of Nordmark, kingdom of Drachenwald. Sicen he said that he wantd to wear 2dersses" I ahve temprarily put my 16th century (and 15th century) projects aside to get back to one of the periods that I have doen the most: the 13th and early 14th century.

This far I have made a new veil, gone through my garb from this period, bought wool, and silk lining for tunics and ordered silk brocade for another tunic.

But most of all I have collected more images and written a lot of (mostly) research-y blog posts.

I made a silk brocade pouch

Patterned clothes in the 13th and early 14th century

Some coloured and patterned veils in the 13th and early 14th century

More lined veils

13th century underwear

Fancy, patterned braies in the 13th century

My murrey sleeved 13th century surcoat

A 13th century striped veil and blue silk cotte that I made

Par vestimentorum - a set of clothes

Clothing in Isabella de Bruce' trosseau from 1293

I also finally finished my Isabella di Toledo silk stockings.
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Work takes most of my energy, but yesterday I made the collar for my new short coat while having tea with my neighbour Anna and later keeping Maja company before she went to bed, she has a cold and needed her mummy.

It's a for me typical mix of machine and hand sewn. Since the fabric has a tendencey to unravel while you watch it teh pieces are zig-zagged, but it is sewn together by hand, because it is easier to combine with a social life. To make the collar stiff enough it is interlined with a heavy cotton satin and the lining and interlining are padstitched together before the top fabric is added.





Yesterday I also put up an old presentation, from 2011, that I gave at a fashion history conference in Brighton, in my other blog: Clothing and perceptions of gender and body in the medieval an early modern period. You can read it here, if you haven't already.
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I am actually not yet well from the flu, but yesterday I got back to work on my usual sick leave of 50%. It was no slow start, since on Thursday I have a 40 minute presentation on clothing and its social meanings in 17th century Sweden at a research symposium at our town museum.
I haven't done the additional research on late 17th century probates from Gothenburg I had planned since I was ill, so I will have to have a more general discussion based on the probates from Stockholm that I have worked with on and off the last years.

I got a bit of a flow this morning, but then I had a meeting at work and after that I needed some rest in the sun on my balcony. First I read the latest Crimes of Fashion book, "Lethal black dress", which arrived on Friday for a while and then I read Clare Haru Crowston's latest: Credit, Fashion, Sex: Economies of Regard in Old Regime France for an hour before going back to the computer to work on my presentation.

I think that it will be interesting enough, not much new content for me, but that doesn't really matter, because it will be new for at least most of the other participants. It also got me thinking that I really should write a book about 17th century dress in Sweden - I think that I will soon know the subject well enough. That put me in a good mood, even if I don't see it happening soon- I'm not even well form the flu yet really.
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My trip to England was not only beer, rock'n'roll, dolls, fabric shopping and lovely friends; it also had a higher purpose, since I was presenting at at conference called "The geography of luxury: east, west and global directions" held at the University of Warwick in Coventry. My paper was on Swedish sumptuary law and can be read here.
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Last friday I ran out of yarn for teh sweater I'm knitting. With most of the last sleeve left to do. On Monday I went to the yarn shop, but they wouldn't get any until the end of next week. So I went home and ordered it online and today it arrived. My plan was to knit the whole sleeve and finish the sweater today, but I still ahve most of the sleeve cap left to do and I really must sleep. But tomorrow! :)

While waiting for the yarn I knit a pair of cosy socks for Inger and started on a shawl for my mum. It's her birthday today, but I won't meet her before the weekend, so it ought to get finished in time.

Knitting aside, I'm working on an article on dress regulations for prostitutes and other sexually transgressive women in medieval Scandinavia. The deadline is tomorrow, but I got an extension so I can work on it next week too.
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Yesterday at 8.08 my collague Aufur called me and asked where I was, since I was goign to have a lecture at 8.15. I had totally forgotten about this, but of course she was right. So I jumped out of sweatpants and t-shirt and into a skirt, tights and a top and then jumped on my crutches as fast as I could to the university. Meanwhile she talked a little about the coming examinations. I got uinto my room and dug out my old notes, though I didn't have the time to find the OH-transparencies that are in another room and at 8.28 I was there, ready to teach. I did have to draw a map of Africa, due ot the lack of transparencies, but other than that it went pretty well.
At the break I got the transparencies for the next hour, which dealt with the early history of China.

Considering how it started I think that I did a good job.

Then I went home and made the final revisions for my article for Fashionable Encounters: Perspectives and trends in textile and dress in the Early Modern Nordic World, which will be published by Oxbow Books next spring. Our web mail wouldn't let me attach more than one file per message, but eventually it all got there in time.

Today I have a meeting about our fashion history course and then I teach Fashion 1900-1950 - an overview.
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You can find my presentation at the Pasold conference here.There will be more of this and about sumptuary law and concepts of nationhood in Sweden in an article that will be published in a book in the Ancient Textiles series by Oxbow books next summer.
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I've been away from here for a long time (two weeks I think)..I read your posts, but I don't write much. I do some blogging at my other blog, mainly because I don't have to fill it with content, but can just post some pretty pictures, or because I write about specific Swedish stuff.

My health is really bad now. The arthritic flare isn't getting better and I have also 
TMI )
Yesterday I started on prednisone, which will hopefully "break" the flare, but I got a bad reaction and spent most of yesterday being in lots of pain from all ove rthe body and sweatign a lot. This happened after my injection a few weeks ago too and then went away, so I hope it's just the initial reaction and that it will pass. Unfoirtunately this meant that I slept maybe three hours this night and I teach between 18 and 20 tonight. Maybe I can nap a little after I have sent Valeria to school.

I currently work half time, which is good, but I am still very stressed about work, since I haven't been able to focus on my presentation for the Pasold Conference next week. Not panicking yet, but a lot depends on making a good impression there - for example I want to write an article about the things I'm going to talk about and have it published in Textile History.
That presentation is on Saturday, in Stockholm, but on Thursday I give a totally different one at the Gothenburg bookfair - one of the biggest agencies for funding research in Sweden has asked me to present some stuff I wrote about the transition from viking to medieval manners of dress around the year 1000. I think have that presentation ready, which is good.

And finally the deadline for the final revisions for my article on foreign goods in 16th and early 17th century Sweden is on Monday the 1st. I plan to make most of that on the train to and from Stockholm.
.
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I have just stopped thinking that the 17th century is really boring, which I've always thought before. Intriguing, must be "my" 17th century probates.
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Well, it seems that I was accepted to the Pasold Conference in Stockholm in 2012 after all. They were supposed to give notice to those who were accpted on the 15th of March and since I hadn't heard anything from them I didn't think that they wanted me (or at least my abstract). But they were just late in giving notice.

Allrighty - that means that I have to start transcribing 17th century probates now. 


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The gigantic excel file with imported materials used for clothing in probates from Stockholm 1589-1649  is finished!!! Tomorrow: to figure out the best way to analyze and present the data - one week until deadline!
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An example of gothic/german hand writing from 1603.



The first words are fiolenn bruun (purple, the modern colour, not royal purple), then two mystery words, which (probably) is the material, followed by kiortil (gown).

FYI

Feb. 10th, 2012 09:43 am
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16th and 17th century hand writing is hard, at least if your sources are from a country where they used German (fraktur) letters. But there is clothing in those probates.
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 Do I wish that I could go to this seminar? yes indeed I do. But it's in Madrid. Next week.

Apart from that progress is actually happening with my article in English about swedish sumptuary laws and the foreign in the 16th and 17th centuries. Hopefully I will get photos of lots of probates from Stockholm in two weeks and until then I'm workign on other parts of the study/article.
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I finished the first article on time, around half past ten last night. I haven't fixed all the foot notes, but the text is finished. Now to decide which years I am going to try to order copies of archive material from for the next article. And think about the disposition.
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I am currently working on an article for an anthology; about Swedish sumptuary laws from the Middle Ages and up to the last one 1830 (or something like that). It is actually quite fun. I've felt for a long time that I never do anything that hasn't been done before in this project, but now I feel that I am. Of course they have been studied before, but generally either as sources for how people dressed or  in a national economic context. I'm interested in what they say about the relations between clothes, gender and class. I also cover the whole period, which I don't think anyone has done before. 
The article does not in any way deal with all these topics exhaustively, I draw up some broader lines and then I concentrate on two separate "case studies": Women's sexual moral in sumptuary laws and the intersection between gender and class in 18th century sumptuary laws. I actually think that I will be able to finish it and that it will be quite interesting when finished.

The other fun thing I'm referring to is looking through probate inventories from 1694, which I did on Tuesday. There is NO way I could do a comprehensive survey of clothing in those, there is just so much, but I'm going to have a look at sample years for at least the 17th century. First I have to write a little more on the article and then make a large sheet with little boxes saying things like "red glazed wool dress" so that I can go through the material in an organized way.

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