Eva's journal

Next year Gothenburg celebrates its 400th anniversary and I have planned to make a burgher's class outfit from 1621. However, I don't normally do 17th century, so i am happy that the shape of kirtles, as far as we can deduce from artwork from the period didn't change that much, or at all, between teh late 16th and the early 17th century. So with the correct jacket and headwear, apron, and ruffs I ought to be able to wear the kirtle in the SCA too. It is nice to wear the things you make more than once.In other sewing news, I am making a zipped hoodie from this gorgeous sweathirt fabric. it makes me think of
clothsprogs

On the gown, I need a lace collar and a cap, and a shift that works better. And, if I can't find my ancient bum roll, a new one. But I'm  happy with the gown this far:

I am blaming holidays, followed by our annual wiccan gathering in the woods and then a conference on 18th century history in Rotterdam I loved Rotterdam and took loads of photos of buildings, go here to check them out). But I've also been doing more blogging in my blogspots blog, because it's easier to put photos there.

But a recap:

Finished the velvet dress and took photos at a late 15th century castle not too far from here. I made a page for it that you can see here. The velvet partlet turned out too big, but I have already taken it in.



I made a sheer coif and wired cap from silk organza that I bought from aclisto a decade ago or so:


Inspiration was a Swedish 16th century portrait, but then I found  one that looked even more like mine, but with puffs of hair at the ears instead of a coif.


I have also started working on a 17th century gown. I guess it was only a matter of time before spending so much time researching 17th cnetury dress would get to me. But it DID take three years before I actually decided to make one. The decision was prompted by the fact that there's a 17th century themed festival at a nearby castle, so that I have somewhere to wear it.

The skirt is made, and beautifully modelled with a 1940s house dress worn under it, and I'm working on the bodice.





Finally I had an absolutely lovely visit by mmcnealy on Moday and Tuesday. We got to be really academically nerdy together and I also dragged her for a 7,5 miles walk around the historic parts of Gothenburg.Then she left for Visby medieval week, where she's giving classes.
But yesterday I got ther book, which may lead to hubby getting Hungarian or Polish 16th century garb.

I am actually not yet well from the flu, but yesterday I got back to work on my usual sick leave of 50%. It was no slow start, since on Thursday I have a 40 minute presentation on clothing and its social meanings in 17th century Sweden at a research symposium at our town museum.
I haven't done the additional research on late 17th century probates from Gothenburg I had planned since I was ill, so I will have to have a more general discussion based on the probates from Stockholm that I have worked with on and off the last years.

I got a bit of a flow this morning, but then I had a meeting at work and after that I needed some rest in the sun on my balcony. First I read the latest Crimes of Fashion book, "Lethal black dress", which arrived on Friday for a while and then I read Clare Haru Crowston's latest: Credit, Fashion, Sex: Economies of Regard in Old Regime France for an hour before going back to the computer to work on my presentation.

I think that it will be interesting enough, not much new content for me, but that doesn't really matter, because it will be new for at least most of the other participants. It also got me thinking that I really should write a book about 17th century dress in Sweden - I think that I will soon know the subject well enough. That put me in a good mood, even if I don't see it happening soon- I'm not even well form the flu yet really.

You can find my presentation at the Pasold conference here.There will be more of this and about sumptuary law and concepts of nationhood in Sweden in an article that will be published in a book in the Ancient Textiles series by Oxbow books next summer.

The gigantic excel file with imported materials used for clothing in probates from Stockholm 1589-1649  is finished!!! Tomorrow: to figure out the best way to analyze and present the data - one week until deadline!

An example of gothic/german hand writing from 1603.



The first words are fiolenn bruun (purple, the modern colour, not royal purple), then two mystery words, which (probably) is the material, followed by kiortil (gown).

Just when I was getting to really appreciate Fashion and fiction. Dress in art and literature in Stuart England, almost forgiving Ribeiro for the aforementioned offenses she writes that constant wearing of caps and hats were a cause for hair loss (and thus a reason for the use of wigs). If that had been the case, which of course is refuted by scientific research on hair loss, wouldn't women, who have been wearing headwear from dawn 'til dusk for centuries have been more prone to hair loss than men? Think before you write is a good maxim to apply to your work I think.

That's the only explanation I can give to me falling asleep with Aileen Ribeiro's Fashion and fiction. Dress in art and literature in Stuart England. I am in great need of strong tea.