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 Anna had to sew all the night before (she stopped at 5 am, slept three hours and continued sewing), but her dress got finished except for trimming. I made small chicken pies and bought fruit and almond biscuits for uss, which was very nice to eat on the lawn outside the beautiful 1796 summer house of Gunnebo.

I've put lots of photos over at my costuming blog, including a photo of me not wearing anything ;) After the picnic Anna and I walked through a lake and had a swim before going home.

I won't clog up this post with lots of photos, since you can find them here, but here's two. 


Tomorrow I will re-make another modern skirt, so that I have something to wear to work now that term has started again.

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It needs ties and trimming, but otherwise it's pretty nice and will work well with my velvet spencer I think. It's from raspberry pink silk shantung. I had hoped that there would be enough velvet for a hat, but there was only small scraps left when I had finsihed the new collar.

rosa regencyhatt

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 I finished the velvet spencer on Tuesday, but I was not happy with how the collar looked. I had scooped out the neck too much in the back. So yesterday I ripped off the collar and started on a new version. It won't solve the whole issue, but hopefully it will look better.  It is now past 8 am, so I think that I can safely start sewing it. And then work, of course, but since I only work part time I can arrive rather late at work.

Anna has finished her transitional stays and they look amazing on her, and yesterday we worked on a toile for the bodice of her gown, which means that she will be finished with her outfit for the picnic on Saturday. I will make the picnic food for both of us, so that she can sew the whole Saturday morning too.
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 Well, actually I love velvet, but not sewing it, my entire kitchen is covered with raspberry pink lint.

Apart from making lint I am going to make a spencer for Saturday's picnic. Just to ensure that the weather stays nice and warm. 

I really want to start on it now, but since I'm using the sewing machine for htis and live in a flat I think I ought to wait until after 8 am.
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 Well, it appears that this is by far my most popular post on my costuming blog - can't see why ;) 

In other news I started on a spencer from velvet remnants yesterday. I was disappointed to find that there wasn't enough for long sleeves, but accepted this as you must accept what can't be changed.
The I found some more scraps of the same velvet and now I have to decide whether I should piece the sleeves at elbow length to make them full length or not.

That decision will probably be postponed to this evening though, since I have my first lecture this semester today and has stuff to do at work before that. Yesterday I suffered from quite a lot of anxiety about this, but now I feel much better, despite the fact that the department just moved and I don't exactly know where I am to teach.

Oh, and Anna loved her blue silk bonnet.

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Yeah, you all know me: I have a tendency to get very enthusiastic about new things, so what I did yesterday is not so strange: I started on a pair of late 18th century transitional stays.

Anna has chosen the very late 18th century as her period for our upcoming regency picnic which of course fueled my enthusiasm. Since I had already bought white thin cotton to make a round gown to be worn either separately or with an open gown, the idea was there already. It was mainly the timing that was affected, since I had thought about making this later in the autumn.

Well, that was not to be: having run out of hand sewing projects that I could work on in the evenings - the embroidered smock I am making for  Valeria requires good lighting and eyes that are not tired - I needed another project. I started with the skirt for the round gown, which will have two rows of very pretty coral pink silk tabby ribbon around the hem. I could not, however start on the bodice before I had decided whether to wear it with my slightly later regency stays, or make a new, late 18th century pair.

And yesterday I decided to go for it. I dug out some strong linen for the stays, my just a little bit too large effigy stays to have some idea of size, and an extremly sturdy polycotton twill that I use for mock-ups for stays.

I also looked around on the internet and found several useful blog posts to help me figure out what I wanted to do.

These were the ones I looked at the most, two of my old friends here in the costuming world, and a new for me blog.

Festive Attyre

Katherine's dress site

Rococo Atelier

Most of these mentioned the book Corsets by Jill Salen, and I have ordered it on ILL, but of course I couldn't wait for that to arrive. So by studying the pictures on Rococo Atelier, which showed both her version with cups, and the original pattern with a gusset I came up with a pattern that I tried with enough success to go on to cutting the linen.

I got as far as making all the lacing holes on one front piece yesterday, and the rest this morning, and I have now also sewn all the boning channels on machine. Yesterday I was sorely tempted to make it all by hand, but sense prevailed, I have lots of real life work and many other projects to work on.

Since I don't have any white bias tape at home, and I'm not that interested in making some I am going to take a walk downtown and get it, as well as catch some pokemon.

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 Yesterday I came up with and idea for Anna's birthday present - she doesn't expect one, but she's one of my best friends so of course she should get one. Since she earns about double as much as I do buying stuff seemed pointless, so I decided to make her a bonnet for the Regency picnic. Then she won't have to worry about that.
Her dress is c. 1800 and will be made from yellow silk with blue ribbons to trim it, so I dug through my plastic tub with silk, and found some scraps from a lovely blue habotai that is now, with the help of some linen and fusible interlining (for the brim) a soon finished very pretty bonnet. All it needs is ties, and I will make those tomorrow.
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I started working on taking in two of my many too large skirts on Saturday night. Unfortunately I was rather tired and stupid, so while I removed the right amount in the side of one skirt, I removed the same amount on both sides of the other one!
I can close it, but it's not comfortable, so I will have to add small gussets at the sides. Very irritating. But at least I know that I am the kind of person who will actually do it, and soon (probably this afternoon), not just put the skirt away.

The semester starts in a week and I need to have some more professional looking clothes to wear.

In other news I've re-made my net and lace regency cap cap, made a triangular fichu from spotted net with a lace edge, started the embroidery on Valeria's new 16th century smock and also sewn the skirt of a white muslin 1790s round gown.

Add to this that I have had family over to celebrate the twins' birthday, been to a football game, and to a manifestation for Afghan refugees - I think we can without doubt say that my weekend has been productive.

Now I just have to be productive at work too. Today the plan is to finish my presentation for the Dressing the Early Modern Network conference in Berlin on the 15th of September, and to unpack books at my new work place. Tomorrow I will have to start on a new class on written sources to dress history that I'm giving on the 5th of September.


Aug. 17th, 2017 11:30 pm
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Apparently hats was the theme of the day. First I made a sort of bonnet with a fabric crown.

lila bahytt_sida

Another photo )Then I lined my straw bonnet.

bahytt med gröna band, fodrad

Takign selfies while trying to show off the bonnet is NOT easy.

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Today, instead of working I got dressed and took Rickard with me out on the lawn outside our house to takesome photos of my new regency outfit. This is my first attempt at rag curls, and except for curling too much hair I am reasonably satisfied. The lace cap was finished at breakfast this morning.

regency petrol fully dressed_front4

I will make a proper page for it over on my costuming blog, but not now, sicne I am - after all - supposed to be working :) Tonight maybe, though I'm going to spend most of the eveningover at Anna's plae, encouraging her to work on her transitional stays, and making a chemisette.
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So today started with a long walk to a manifestation for afghan refugee kids who will in all likelihood be deported back to Afghanistan by Sweden. It is absolutely horrible and a disgrace for my country, but I won't dwell on that here, because this blog is supposed to be about historical clothes and sewing. But I must say that the only way I can continue to live my life as it is when this is happening is to not let myself feel, to push those feelings away, because it is heartbreaking to know that these young boys will be sent away, very likely to die.

So I pushed it away, and enjoyed our walk, and the sun, and when I came home I sat down to sew, and  and listening to The Cleric Quintet on audio book. This is was the last day of my holiday, so I thought that I'd do something that I really enjoy.

First I started re-making my regency stays again. I showed the first re-make in my previous post, when I had taken them in c. 8 cm. However, while they worked as they were I knew that my bust would look more correct if I shortened the bust gores. So that's what I did.

Yesterday I was at my friend Anna's place contributing with advice and moral support (and artificial whale bone) when she started patterning her first stays, late 18th century transitional stays with cups. While talking (i'm good at multi-tasking ; ) I took in my regency petticoat.

Current version of stays and petticoat:

When they were first made:

Then I started on the bodice. I made the sleeves yesterday, though I think I may have to re-do them, they are maybe too wide. We'll see how it looks when they are sewn in to the bodice.

First I had to make a new pattern, but with the help of my previous, too large pattern, or at least the front piece, since I couldn't find the back piece, it wasn't that difficult.

Apart from the usual sources such as Patterns of Fashion and Kvinnligt mode under två sekel by Pernilla Rasmussen and Britta Hammar, I also looked at a couple of patterns from the internet, generously shared by the 19th US Regiment of InfantryCapt. Angus Langham's Company1812-1815.
Here you find their images and patterns of extant gows and outerwear.

And I sort of make it up as I go along. It is all hand sewn, as the rest of my regency clothing except for the stays, which were a test version whee only the lacing holes in the back are hand sewn. And making things by hand you can do it piece by piece and figure out, for example, exactly where to attach the skirt later. So I am basically making it up as I go along. There is one narrow channel more to make, the bodice will be gathered in front, before I have to figure out the skirt. And I can do that tomorrow, when I'm less tired.

Of course

Aug. 13th, 2017 03:15 pm
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 Of course, being me, I will now remove the bust gussets on the regency stays and shorten them. They work as they are, but they will (probably, I will of course try it before cutting) will look better with shorter gussets so that the boobs end up higher.

Yesterday I re-made the petticoat and also sewed the sleeves for the teal gown. Unfortunately I think they turned out too wide, but I will see when I have made the bodice.

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 The embroidery on the skirt of my new frock is finally finished (the photo is too light).

Now to decide exaclty what typ of bodice that I want, and make a pattern for that. First I'm taking in my petticoat however. I'm bringing the petticoat, and the fabric for the bodice over to Anna's place tonight. The main purpose of the visit is to help her make her first stays, ca 1790-1800, but I may get the time to do some sewing myself too.

Later this night I may go down town to a manifestation held by child refugees from Afghanistan who are going to be sent back by Sweden (one of a very few countries who dperot peopel to Afghanistan right now). In Stockholm such a manifestation was attacked by nazis a few days ago, so there is a need for grown-ups, and native Swedes, to protect these boys, espcially during the dark hours.

Valeria and I spent 2,5 hours there last night, between 10.45 pm and 01.15 am, playing cards and chatting. Se's going down there now and I will probably get down later.

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