High waisted fashions in 14th century Italy

[frualeydis]

I've written a long blog post (or at least image heavy) on high waisted fashions of the late 13th century and the first half of the 14th century in Italy. I have also reached the conclusion that some of them actually must have very high waist seams. it doesn't fit with anything I have learned this far, but I can't explain away images like this.




Blog post.

Comments

[idahoswede.livejournal.com]

Waist? They are so high, they are nearly strangling the wearer!

And out of curiosity, why do you think a drawstring, at least in some cases, would not be right? That peplum effect on the lavender gown is also most interesting. I hope you know the one I mean.

[frualeydis.livejournal.com]

Yes, it's more of a yoke than a bodice.
About drawstring I've just never heard of drawstring being used in gowns before the 18th century.

/Eva

[clothsprogs.livejournal.com]

I'd call that a yoke if it didn't seem to go intothe armpit.

And why do they have something tied around it just below the gahters...?

Curiouser and curiouser

Teddy

[frualeydis.livejournal.com]

It's common to wear a narrow belt just under the bust, I was thinking that maybe the belt and seam are supposed to actually be in the same place, but that it didn't work out like that for everybody ;)

I haven't decide if I'm gping to make one like this or not, and I have dishcloths to knit before I start on any new gowns. It's christmas presents for my sister, mother and stepdad.

/Eva

[clothsprogs.livejournal.com]

It looks like th belt at the same level as the seam didn't work out that way for anybody!

Good luck with gettig all that knitting done!

Teddy

[sarahbellem.livejournal.com]

Oh, wow, those ARE weird!

One thought: Could they be wearing a drawstring skirt/apron over a fitted kirtle? The ties could be crossed around the back and brought forward and tied at the bust.

Oh I like that hypothesis

[kareina.livejournal.com]

My first thought when I saw this image is that it looks extraordinarily uncomfortable (I need my breasts supported by pushing up, not down, and these look like the push down). But if it is just an extra layer tied on top of everything perhaps it isn't as uncomfortable as I imagine.

[frualeydis.livejournal.com]

It's always the same fabric though. And the tie or belt is found also on the ones which don't have seams. I don't really know, but this early, where there are no other examples of tie around aprons, I would guess that they are gowns.
This image is later, ca 1330-1340 - and here you celrly see a seam under the arm: https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Battistero_di_Parma_20081206-85.jpg

The sleeves and the front of the gown are the same pink fabric with blue pattern, though what goes udner the gown is very intriguing - either she wears a patterned apron under the gown or her tunic has a broad patterned stripe.

Very interesting.

/Eva