Tudor hood question n:o 1984632

[frualeydis]

Or something like that:

I have just finished a wired coif in pale gold silk with a pleated strip of the same fabric. The next step is the veil so here comes the question:
Today we almost always see them in black velvet, but do we have any sources to what they were made of?
Was it velvet?
Was it always velvet?

Since the coif is hand sewn from all period materials (including hand woven linen twill) it would be nice to use period materials for the veil too, but I will never find 100% silk velvet, at least not that I can afford. I have nice thick black silk satin, in fact I used it for the veil on my first (and this far; only) french hood, but was satin ever used for this? or could one use taffeta?

Does anybody know? I have neither the access to nor the time to look through english written sources from the first half of the 16th century, but maybe somebody already has done that. At least I'm hoping.

myladyswardrobe, ninya_mikhaila, peronel?
sarahbellem? In my book you're the hood goddess, what's your opinion?

Comments

[myladyswardrobe.livejournal.com]

I can't comment on what fabrics were used from written sources or even really from portraits. What I can say is that based on portaiture only (and colour versions at that) the veil is always black. It usually *looks* as though it is velvet from the matte effect that it is painted but of course, one can't state categorically that it is velvet as painting effects are in the hand of the artist.

This probably doesn't help you much - however, I'm seeing Ninya tomorrow so can ask her then.

[frualeydis.livejournal.com]

Thank you so much Bess. I suspected that if you didn't know you would know who to ask.

Eva

[myladyswardrobe.livejournal.com]

You're welcome.

I've not really read that many written sources but I know that Ninya certainly has been!!

[ninya-mikhaila.livejournal.com]

Yes, you can use satin or taffeta as well as velvet, as Bess says - always in black. I am at home at the moment so do not have my refs to quote from hand but tomorrow I will find a few nice accounts of these fabrics for you, I know I have lots...

[frualeydis.livejournal.com]

Thank you. There's nothing like a written source (says the historian).

Eva

[ninya-mikhaila.livejournal.com]

OK, having skimmed through my refs the thing that stands out is that bongraces/cornets/veils for hoods are rarely described by fabric. Billiments nearly always are, probably to make it clear whether they are valuable ones made from goldsmith's work or plain ones made from velvet or satin. The 1550-51 accounts of Mary of Guise tell us that she had 7 headdresses made of taffeta, velvet and satin. In 1553 she had 7 new headdresses including 3 of velvet and 4 which had satin cornets. That's the best I can come up with at the moment - hope it helps!