The Sture shirts

[frualeydis]

There are four shirts preserved from the Sture murders in the 16th century (you probably all know about the costumes, since they are in Janet Arnold's book Patterns of Fashion). The shirts are afaik only published in a little booklet in swedish. They are rather alike all of them and are based on rectangles, like for example the Warwick shirt. There are a few things that are different though.





See the cut-off corners on top of the pieces? Those are about a decimetre long and when the straight sleeve is sewn in there, like you do with the more normal T-construction, you get a more shaped sleevehead.
All the shirts are very long, though I don't know what is considered normal. They're about 125 cm long. They're also wide, the widest is made of two 115 cm wide pieces.
Except for 6 cm in each side, the straight tops are gathered and sewn to the collar.

Comments

[therru.livejournal.com]

Yes, this is how folk costume shirts are supposed to be worn in Sweden, too. No pants, just the ends of the shirt crossed between the legs.

[sneprinsesse.livejournal.com]

My former boss borrows his wife's tights to wear under his bunad because of the itch :)

On my Gausdalsbunad, the shirt is actually really midriff-itchingly short. Apparently to make it easyer to breastfeed. According to the wonderful book by

[Error: Irreparable invalid markup ('<a href0"http://www.bunad-magasinet.no/folkedrakt-og-bymote-i-gudbrandsdalen-1650-1940.201515-29761.html">') in entry. Owner must fix manually. Raw contents below.]

My former boss borrows his wife's tights to wear under his bunad because of the itch :)

On my Gausdalsbunad, the shirt is actually really midriff-itchingly short. Apparently to make it easyer to breastfeed. According to the wonderful book by <a href0"http://www.bunad-magasinet.no/folkedrakt-og-bymote-i-gudbrandsdalen-1650-1940.201515-29761.html">Ragnhild Bleken Rusten: Folkedrakt og bymote i Gudbrandsdalen 1650-1940</a>, there are long shirts for women recorded as well in Gudbrandsdalen, but they are not included in todays costume.