Help?

Sep. 13th, 2008 09:38 pm
frualeydis: (Default)
[personal profile] frualeydis
Could someone please tell me what's going on with her shirt(s)?
German 16th century is tricky.

My idea

Date: 2008-09-13 09:41 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] jillwheezul.livejournal.com
The way I interpret this is a black strip sewn to the outside of the edge of her shirt (or goller). Is this portrait by Hans Baldung Grien? Here is what I have seen that might support this theory from his artwork. I couldn't find them on the web so I put them up in my gallery.

I'll start with the closeup first since this shows the stitches (yay):
http://pics.livejournal.com/jillwheezul/pic/000y9k3d

The whole image:
http://pics.livejournal.com/jillwheezul/pic/000y83tz/

Another example:
http://pics.livejournal.com/jillwheezul/pic/000y7409/

I have another one in one of my books, I think, that shows the strips used as button loops.


Date: 2008-09-13 09:57 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] marccarlson.livejournal.com
The spouse suggests a white garment with a black lining, curling over - and a very light undergarment visible against her neck.

Date: 2008-09-14 12:54 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] knightsmarshall.livejournal.com
I agree. I would imagine the opening only goes down far enough to breastfeed as there doesn't seem to be the on going opening behind the lacing on the stomach.

Date: 2008-09-14 02:49 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] marccarlson.livejournal.com
Just an additional bit - altering the colors of the painting can yield this:

Image

Date: 2008-09-14 03:19 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] jillwheezul.livejournal.com
At first glance I thought there might be more than one garment or some sort of lining, but after studying it I really think it is a black band on the outside. If you follow the lines of black, the odd bits of white that show are the inside of the garment where the black bends over from the tension of the tie. What I can't completely tell is if there is a band like collar on a shirt, or if this is more like one of the scarf like tuckers that one sees especially in Cranach paintings. A band like collar makes the most sense in terms of the garment folding/bending to reveal the inside.

Date: 2008-09-14 12:28 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] estela-dufrayse.livejournal.com
I'm with the first comment of a black edge sewn on to the white shirt, it looks like it's curling about a bit, but just one shirt.

I thought the goller was the fur shoulder garment...

Date: 2008-09-14 01:13 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] jillwheezul.livejournal.com
The word goller can be confusing in its period original German usages. It reads as the little cape things (tippets in English) *or* a partlet worn on the inside or outside of clothing. Sometimes when we are discussing them we call them "innies or outies" like a bellybutton :)

Date: 2008-09-14 12:50 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] liadethornegge.livejournal.com
It looks like she's got a shirt on.
Then a white partled lined in black.
Then a fur-lined goller.

But I am not the German expert.

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