Since I can't start on the 16th century kirtle until I have some linen (9 m or something like that) I started on another 12th century dress. Normally I make the tight "bliaut"-style, but I thought it would be nice with a loose dress with wide, but not exactly hanging sleeves. Especially now.
My inspiration comes from a manuscript on the life of St. Lucy, from c. 1130, now in the Staatliche Museum in Berlin. Several of the illustrations can be seen in the book
Portrayed on the heart. Narrative effect in Pictorial Lives of Saints from the Tenth through the Thirteenth century by Cynthia Hahn.
I'm using 3 m of pale purple very thin wool that I got as a wedding present. Originally it was grey wool with a faint checked pattern. Veronika, who owned it, tried to dye it red, but it turned out pale purple, almost lilac. She didn't like it, but I did, so I got it as a present. I'm making it in a mix of machine sewing and hand sewing. I use the machine for all the straight seams, but then I fell all the seam allowances and stitch them down by hand. This makes the inside of the dress look much less modern, because the straight seams of the machine looks similar to a backstitch done by hand. Only similar, but unless you're 30 cm from the actual seam (on the inside of the dress) you're not likely to notice.
The cut is the normal 12th century cut with two straight panels widened with gores in centre front and back and the sides. I made it without shoulder seams, so it's actually just one straight panel, but very long. You can compare with
the Kragelund tunic (at Marc Carlson's site). The gores on the Kragelund tunic is made of two pieces and so are the side gores on my dress, the front and back gores I made in one piece. I also made a simpler sleeve pattern with just a seam under the arm and widening slightly at the cuffs.
This far I've sewn all the gores to the main panel and felled half the seams. I'm staying home from work today too so the rest will probably get felled during the day. Then I'll attach the sleeves to the body and finally sew the side seams, from cuff to hem. Then there' just hand sewing left and that's the fun part, because you can either watch TV or socialize while doing it.